conking out.
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4954
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Re: conking out.
It is not possible to change the HT lead on your ignition!
Unless the CDI is dead there is NO reason to remove the flywheel.
Unless the CDI is dead there is NO reason to remove the flywheel.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: conking out.
went out tonight put a new champion d-16 plug in purchased from john gave her a good pull getting a faint orange spark instead of a bright blue one.
wish i stayed closer to some of you guys you have all been very patient.
wish i stayed closer to some of you guys you have all been very patient.
Re: conking out.
A yellow spark is not realy good enough to run the motor. Can you post a picture of the coil as ive not seen a Wipac CDI coil?
Re: conking out.
Just curious is this whats in the motor being discussed here? If so what is the other module? Is this a CDI Ign system or a Transistor system like the Atom?
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4954
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Re: conking out.
Your's is a Wipac Mk 3 Daryl, on which the ht lead is replacable, that was only used from 79 to early 81 ish, chances are that Roxylass has a Wipac mk 4 nothing you can fix on that.
John can supply rebuilt Wipac CDI's but only on an exchange basis as they are no longer available new.
Please note that if you change a mk 3 for a mk 4 CDI the flywheel also has to be changed, as they are not compatible!
John can supply rebuilt Wipac CDI's but only on an exchange basis as they are no longer available new.
Please note that if you change a mk 3 for a mk 4 CDI the flywheel also has to be changed, as they are not compatible!
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: conking out.
looking at the owners spares book and it says.
motors fitted with the mark 111 ignition system have the following code lettering.
forty featherweight and model 45 efs egf
forty plus and model 55 efpc
silver century and model 75 esc
silver century plus and model 80 espc
model 110 and model 90 efnr
motors equipped with the mark 1v ignition system have the following code lettering
forty featherwieght and model 45 ef set tsef
forty plus and model 55 60 efpw afpw sefpc
tsefpc egfpw afpc.
it is a model 75 i have.
motors fitted with the mark 111 ignition system have the following code lettering.
forty featherweight and model 45 efs egf
forty plus and model 55 efpc
silver century and model 75 esc
silver century plus and model 80 espc
model 110 and model 90 efnr
motors equipped with the mark 1v ignition system have the following code lettering
forty featherwieght and model 45 ef set tsef
forty plus and model 55 60 efpw afpw sefpc
tsefpc egfpw afpc.
it is a model 75 i have.
Re: conking out.
still trying to get the engine going, tried it last night in the semi dark a nice fat spark from the plug so it is certainly not the cdi, fresh fuel choke open still refusing to start took the plug out no smell at all of fuel from it actually it was quite dry, just to make sure i was getting good power to the plug got my friend to hold the bare plug pulled the rope she let out a scream said she got a shock know it was a nasty trick to play but now i know certainly power going to the spark plug so why wont she fire up.
-
- Posts: 2838
- Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 8:42 pm
- Location: Surrey
Re: conking out.
Did you measure the compression?
If there is a spark, compression and fuel it will run.
Take the carb off, squirt a little fuel into the inlet stub and give it a pull.
It should run for a few seconds, or at least fire.
H-A
If there is a spark, compression and fuel it will run.
Take the carb off, squirt a little fuel into the inlet stub and give it a pull.
It should run for a few seconds, or at least fire.
H-A
Re: conking out.
thinking spark might not be firing at the correct time, since it is a cdi no points to check as i am getting a good spark how do i find out if it is firing at the correct time.
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4954
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Re: conking out.
Remove the flywheel cover, then replace the spacer & the starter cup & the retaining nut, so you can start the motor without the cover in place.
Fix a pointer onto the CDI baseplate, place a mark on the flywheel where the pointer indicates, when the piston is a TDC,
calculate the distance on the periphery of the flywheel to correspond with 23 degrees BTDC at the pointer.
Remove the sparkplug & earth to the motor with a couple of crocodile clips & a short length of wire, using a stroboscopic timing light set at zero degrees dwell & connected up to a 12 volt battery & the plug lead, put some oil in the cylinder & the crankcase or turn the fuel tap on.
Now get someone else to give the starter rope a good strong pull, while you point the strobe at the pointer, at cranking speed the strobe should indicate firing takes place between 15 & 23 degrees BTDC, if everything it happening at the right time.
Don't worry about it showing firing at 15 degrees BTDC, these ignitions are designed to retard the spark between 3 & 10 degrees up to just before 2000 revs when it should be around 23 degrees.
A good strong rope pull will be about 750 revs with the spark plug in place so a bit more with the plug out.
Under no circumstances do this without earthing the plug body, you could kill the CDI!
Fix a pointer onto the CDI baseplate, place a mark on the flywheel where the pointer indicates, when the piston is a TDC,
calculate the distance on the periphery of the flywheel to correspond with 23 degrees BTDC at the pointer.
Remove the sparkplug & earth to the motor with a couple of crocodile clips & a short length of wire, using a stroboscopic timing light set at zero degrees dwell & connected up to a 12 volt battery & the plug lead, put some oil in the cylinder & the crankcase or turn the fuel tap on.
Now get someone else to give the starter rope a good strong pull, while you point the strobe at the pointer, at cranking speed the strobe should indicate firing takes place between 15 & 23 degrees BTDC, if everything it happening at the right time.
Don't worry about it showing firing at 15 degrees BTDC, these ignitions are designed to retard the spark between 3 & 10 degrees up to just before 2000 revs when it should be around 23 degrees.
A good strong rope pull will be about 750 revs with the spark plug in place so a bit more with the plug out.
Under no circumstances do this without earthing the plug body, you could kill the CDI!
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: conking out.
oh dear,not the answer i was expecting probally manage the first few bit,s and then be stumped anywhere i can look for pics on this.
charles if i was a helicopter pilot you would be on the space shuttle.
charles if i was a helicopter pilot you would be on the space shuttle.
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4954
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Re: conking out.
Don't think so I'd be falling off my tricycle.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: conking out.
finally got her running, after about seven carb cleans.
last clean took it in to my work and blasted the carb with the airline on the back of the tractair two pulls and she started.
my thanks to everyone who gave me help and good advice.
last clean took it in to my work and blasted the carb with the airline on the back of the tractair two pulls and she started.
my thanks to everyone who gave me help and good advice.
-
- Posts: 2838
- Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 8:42 pm
- Location: Surrey
Re: conking out.
Well done, got there in the end.
You were unlucky that it took so long to sort.
Usually I find if the float bowl fills, and tha main jet is clear they will run.
Still no pictures
H-A
You were unlucky that it took so long to sort.
Usually I find if the float bowl fills, and tha main jet is clear they will run.
Still no pictures
H-A