Hello all.
I have just obtained SD 2589L3. Condition is reasonable, will rotate, albeit stiffly but is without a gearbox. The engine has obviously been sat for years, but under a coat of dirt the condition seems reasonable. I'm planning a nut and bolt rebuild, but will do a little research first. The immediate problem seems to be that the lug on the crankcase to mount the tiller on has broken.
Has anybody got any experience of repairing broken tiller lugs? I have access to a milling machine, so I am able to make a new lug, but can it be successfully welded?
Also I'm going to be after a gearbox, (anybody know of one?) a correct tiller, throttle, HT lead and maybe a carb.
Thanks H-A. I've put oil in the crank case and cylinder and turned the flywheel slowly. It's freeing up nicely. I'll take a look at the points next week and see if a spark can be found...
In the meantime I'll be checking what what the original spec should be. One things for sure, it's going to be a long term project.
I have just had a further session getting to know this engine. I've taken the carb off and discovered the threads in the carb body are no longer there. As I have another 102 waiting major surgery, I have managed to reclaim the carb body from that engine, so will will be able to use original float housing, with replacment body, and all the original copper/bronze bits.
The exhaust tube has the remains of green/yellow paint and also stencilling saying "Tested serviceable" I'm wondering if this is how it was released from the MOD? There is another word above "tested serviceable" but I can't make it out.
So far the engine has come apart very easily, but then again it is very oily, so far no rusted fasteners found. The shaft housing is very corroded, with the remains of crome plate peeling off. I am going to investigate restoring this to original spec (ie zinc plate based on info gleaned from this forum?)
Had another session today. Gave the top end a general clean using WD40 and a brush. The water jacket zinc coating is still in place and in fairly good condition. It's making me wonder whether it will will need any more work externally.
I also got the flywheel cover off and gave it an initial scrub, to remove all the corrosion off the top off the flywheel, that also came up well. However looking under the flywheel, the points cover is missing as well as half the points. Could well explain the lack of a spark.
I'm now going to get a flywheel puller and investigate the magneto, to try and ensure a spark and refurbish the flywheel before further stripping the cylinder etc.
I also need to think about that broken tiller stub.
Absolutely agree about not using a puller. Refer to the main site where flywheel removal is the subject of much sound advice. The most likely outcome of using a puller is a destroyed flywheel. These dished flywheels from before 1946/7 distort very easily.
Best bet is the removal tool that screws into the female thread at the top. John will have them available. Failing that the instructions in the FAQ or on the main site provide an alternative method.
It's worth remembering that this type of flywheel is fairly scarce.
Thanks Jan, looks like I'll be filing for a while! The ball head fastener on the clamp should be easy enough to find but an O nut will be a nigh on impossible. One day I'm going to be forced to get a lathe..... Have you considered cataloguing your SD spares range? Be interested to know what you have there.
It's better and cheaper to find a SD parts engine. They are often for sale on the web.
If you can't find one I can supply a (used) SD crankcase.
I've also a large stock of other new (NOS) and used SD/102 parts.
Piston rings, gudgeon pins, bolts, gaskets, exhaust clamps, tiller arm studs (steel and bronze), rubber tiller arm bushes and washers, some Amal and Villiers parts, etc, etc.
In March/June 2011 I hope to come to the round Hayling Island Marathon and can bring parts to the UK.
Thanks for the advice re using a puller, it's good to know help is at hand. I actually mean the threaded puller tool SOS have for sale.(described as a puller on the website) As soon as the holiday is over I'll have a shopping list!
Hugz - Thanks for the advice re points for the SD. That's the first item I need, so I can see if a spark is available.
Jan, for future reference do you have any SD and A series flat exhaust water pump housings? or SD or early AC box? Still waiting to find a corroded SD/AC on ebay but alas not a one.
A. Your points box is further away from the crank spindle than later magneto's but, I believe, the rest inside is the same and as you have the longer arm you may find the later missing component will fit. Anyone know??? Two out of my three SD's have had the stud points replaced with the later slide type and the arm looks the same.
Have you considered cataloguing your SD spares range? Be interested to know what you have there.