I've picked up a new project which appears to be a Forty minus based on the SJM engine code.
I've started the ubiquitous strip down, after managing to get a decent spark (the drill trick..!) and confirmning everything still moves as it should.
One of the biggest issues I can see is removing the exhaust and drive tubes - whats the 'agreed' process, as I can see the pinchbolt on the gearbox at the bottom of the driveshaft and once I have cut this off, does the gearbox pull free from the main shaft..? I can see a small screw holding the exhaust which I figure when its removed, the exhaust should slide free..?
Yes the Service sheets show that to separate the power head from transmission you unbolt the drive shaft tube from the block and then lift the power head off complete with silencer.
(you'll need one of the special spanners to unbolt the drive shaft tube though!)
Unless somebody has "repaired" here before and had to drill through both lugs to fit a nut and clench bolt after shearing the original bolt I'm puzzled. If it is the original bolt then cutting the bolt head off or cutting between the lugs does nothing to remove the threaded length of bolt remaining in the port lug....Either way personally I'd be reaching for a decent propane torch, WD40 and a decent fitting socket before the hacksaw.
Seagulls are renowned for having seized and rusted fasteners ... that's a given part of the challenge with these old girls!
If, on the subject of stainless replacements, you mean to replace the drive shaft casing tube with a stainless version there is the difficult question of how to sort out the casting brazed to end....
I'm used to dealing with old Landrovers so the heat/WD40/7lb hammer routine is well versed !!
The clench bolt has resisted duck oil and a serious heating with a MAPP torch, and liberal abuse with an air impact wrench, so a hacksaw is the last resort !
I've yet to break one of these lovely engines down properly, so information such as yours relating to the brazed top to the drive tube is invaluable ! Are these available as spares, or does everyone live with them rusting...!!??
The easy way is strip the rust and paint, usually ali or black they both look ok. Expensive way is to rechrome. Some do adapt stainless tubes. I have thought of using stainless exhaust as well, but a recent experience still not resolved dealing with a brass exhaust has me thinking of sticking with ali. mainly because the ones with ali exhaust tubes come apart so much more easily, at least in my experience.
Peter, if you have not already got one I suggest the Workshop Manual will be a good investment. if nothing else it prevents people making a few expensive mistakes. cost? £10.50 plus P&P.
I spoke to John on Tuesday night about a manual and a few other things, ordered it Wednesday and it arrived on my desk (according to SWMBO) on Thursday morning !
How good is that..?? John - there are a few suppliers who should take a leaf out of your book !
