W219MM3 Sort It Out

[Collector Inspector]

I was given this motor a few years ago. It had a fall from considerable height and basically the gearbox was toast so I kept an end cap and screws Only.

Bent bits and broken bits attached as well as local Australian endeavour or just a good try.

See pics.

I have sourced bits to get it completed see next.

OH yes...now who has sharp eyes I wonder?

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

Another gearbox and worn prop and tiller.

The shaft is original for it.

Couple more pics including well greased points. Way to go that.

Tiller stud was badly beaten to death to keep the dodgy nut on so angle grinder to get nut off. I can see 1/2 of the original split pin...classic.

May be a length issue with replacement tiller fixing but if another stud and nut then I will go gardening to find something.

Pics (We all just love pics aye)

So just something I been going to do last...ages...get this running and painted with fish oil just to get my hand and eye back together.

Stay tuned.

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

Points set and clean...actually I could have left the gap as is but needed to know if things were actually adjustable.

While not actually indicative of cooling jacket I blew with old lungs and no resistance so good to run (If It does) to see what if.

There is no evidence of cracks or deformation outside of block as well.

It was running nicely going by the plug remains as well.

I will rope it over later tonight with gap guage attached. Going to be a nice night as minimal sea breeze and humidity has dropped.

Just fine.

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

Ok an update.

SO MUCH grease on ignition defies any logic. Keyhole surgery through flywheel cos I just not going to take the flywheel off unless a replacement base plate assembly is required. I have a box full so not an issue that.

So I persist and bend cotton tips soaked in grease and wax remover to get over and under the points. The point contacts have absorbed the grease so a bit more fiddling with a basic drip into cotton between them...sorry no pic of that.

Usual point contact surface dressing after all as dry as a bone. Intermittent spark on tester when flicked by hand...Hmm.

Where the wire enters the coil, right at the back yep, more grease. Cleaned that out and bingo! 3,5mm air gap and blue.

The original lead (with all bits) cleaned up and tested OK. Looks sad still but at least functioning.

While an air gap is nice there is still no actual way to confirm that a spark plug will fire under combustion environment of course.

Note: In saying that there will be a follow up regarding spark plugs. New vs old..

Good fun!

Pics relating to above (not plugs yet)

Remember that wipac make good gear that in my experience do not fail because of what they are. They give grief when they treated like an angry possum with no love or something aye.

Carb has been cleaned up. That is the very next.

Cheers and beers

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

Carb is new to me being "Modern 1973" but while slightly less bits is very much the same as days of old.

To my eyes it is completely original to this motor so that is nice.

Took it apart completely, soaked and a brief stay in sonic cleaner and really just take some care in putting it back together.

This was my approach so just take as good practice as to what it is.

So it is cleaned and everything with a hole is a hole.

Point one is make sure that the jet assembly/centerpiece has a nice gasket/washer. They are tough so if you have one just put it back. If there is not one...you actually need one. MUST HAVE.

Now here is where the centerpiece fitment is way important regarding the centerpiece locating screw?

This screw just locates nothing more. Slide the thingy in the body and lightly seat this screw...then back it off a turn.

The gasket/washer has to be drawn down to seal in the carb body. In this case the fuel bowl tension will do this nicely. Earlier metal bowls have the draw up nut underneath.

It is only after the bowl is snug and the centerpiece has pulled the seal/gasket snug within the body that the locating screw can be snugged only so much that it will not fall out.

By the way in that I have always had to go to electrician drivers for this wee beast. Tricky slot at 1/2 square sided. You may agree.

Next thing I checked was that the fuel level lever was not the first thing to hit the body under surface...mine did so I just made it the same as a new one.

Just to be sure that the float has cause on the needle. Float heights are for others to discuss in detail other. I consider that a tuning issue later on an individual motor basis.

Too clean for the old machine aye?

Fish and chips tonight!

Brilliant!

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

YEP!

Ok back to the task in hand and Perth has a warm spell again. I took this pic in 37C...Cello found 35C.

The drive shaft earlier is for a one of the smaller flock so hunting found the correct length. Note to self that Red Back Spiders do hide in piles of metal...and just yesterday the letter box.

Shaft in and impellor sits nicely. Out of parts stock snazzy new spacer gasket. First new part so far by the way.

It was just too hot to go into sheds to find attaching screws so grabbed these from my Hot Rod Seagull Project (I am going to revisit that by the way)

Same for springs and washer pins. I grabbed the first thing that had spring and bits as a donor. I actually have some bits that I forgot I had which is cool. I wonder why these were all under a tarp under eaves...

Sort out a couple of more bent bits should be ready for the tub.

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

Just as an observation that while sorting a bird it needs to be inverted sometimes. A bit like having down under plumbing inspections via ya doctor.

Never ever a good aspect.

I might pressure wash it then again maybe not.

Just working as it should may be enough.

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

Some more progress.

The tank had to be changed of course so I sorted through crap and found one with the correct orientation (I like the dents by the way). It is from an LS I think...no matter as into the tank of doom it went as the inside just had mud or something, Doom because nothing like a rattler with any grunt to find a problem.

The tank is sound and clean inside now.

Fuel tap is something that behaves like a tap with a filter.

Borrowed from another old dear carb connector...with a filter. Must remember to make a note of that aye.

So there we are. Progress has been made of which, kinda chuffed.

Tub?

Looking at you Blue Boy!

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

Had to remove the poor bashed and bent transom bracket so that at least I can secure the motor to the blue tub of tears.

I found something usable complete with unknown residing spider...I left it there as who am I to complain about a housemate that causes no pain?

Found last remaining needle and also lifted, from a display shelfy kind of thing, in old garage, a can proudly stating what it does not have in it at the moment. I actually purchased this full way way ago.

Mixed and ready to make slightly less smoke let's face the facts.

Found an unmarked container of gear oil. In it went as it will be drained when blue tub of tears says "bin it" or "front rack it mate"...This tub knows aye.

Cheers

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

OK

Ready for whatever happens. No fuel leaks not even from the cap when everything upside down...must be a different universe but that is good

One concern that I have is that seeing obviously that the tiller support and bottom crankcase is bent...it had a fall if you go back...this area may just be nasty and things come apart. Common little thing with a Gull and easily fix

Other thing will be cooling hot spots block or total loss of water flow when running in the tub for 10 minutes or so.

Expecting all possibilities good or bad.

Fine old bird

Cello is not at all concerned.

Later aye

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

In the tub.

Three pulls.

Poked screwdriver in water outlet until soft black things were clear. (I have no idea)

Reduced four stroking a bit with a 40 plus prop and filled the tub high to reduce cavitation. Seemed to work well.

Nothing got hot and crank case did not leak.

It ran for a while in the rain...actually it was out in the overnight rain.

Plug cap, service throttle and cable, find and fettle a better bracket, might take the head off, wait for correct prop to arrive and pressure wash it?

I am a first time user of Google My Drive.

This is short version.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=19zvxr ... b2Yq1ZiyPe

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

I threw 5 litres of kero at it and let soak while finding pressure washer.

I will not go into details but said washer was buried...and spiders...and where is an extension cord now. Just went off.

Hit it with enthusiasm big tip.

Rain all gone after starting pole fires in Perth. Now just muggy sunny.

Further now is to treat all fasteners for rust remaining and into future storage. The protective Smutts Of Ages are now gone.

Should have just left them to carry on...

Also the cleanest mobile engine stand in Perth ATM.

BnC

[Collector Inspector]

I suppose that leaving it out in the elements is generally not a good idea that a seriously nice Gull thing to do. However this one is still being determined as keeper or parts donor so I think fair enough.

I gave in to move it as it is 39C in the shade today...maybe just not push ignition coil and carb float too much.

Had to get towels to pick it up...I burnt my hand.

Released the cap vent and it was wanting that as well.

Gearbox not leaking either...go figure?

Found a mint tank in a box of em and bits to make a decent transom bracket to suite the year.

And a new nylon torque tube latch.

Still testing on it for a keeper as I said.

Cheers

BnC

[Nudge]

looks like your having fun with it. Good stuff keep at it!

[Collector Inspector]

Looking for FV/FVP bits and I started at the very back of shed number one and box first reachable.

BINGO!

Transom bracket!

That squares that little problem

BnC