Roys second 102 series build

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african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

The drive tube cup is a tad small for the drive tube on my bitsa motor, why?
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african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

The motor and its power leg have now been hung up to rest for a while, I will await the arrival of suitable spare parts to do the additions required to make this a usable Seagull outboard.

The gear box lower flange was bent, check the picture, how and why do people do such a thing? I am not happy to try and bend it back cold, I can use heat but how much?

I do not have a propellor, which one will suit the gear box and a 102 series motor, the maximum diameter would be say 8.5" inches?

Would anyone be prepared to sell me and post a prop to Cape Town, South Africa?
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african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

blokewithaboat wrote:Grab it Roy.
This would help you finish your project 102 for sure with spares left over for dare i say it another project for the future!

There's the carb you're looking for along with the right thumb throttle and a fuel pipe. You never know you might be able to salvage the throttle cable too while you're at it. Possibly the tiller as well if it's not bent. (that should keep Charles a bit happier at least :lol: )
Definitely a good source for the parts you still need.
You might get lucky and find the gearbox may be salvageable too. Maybe even a prop. Can't see in the pics.

Let us know how it turns out with this. Obviously if you still need parts let me know and i'll see what i can do. I definitely don't have a carb though, but some of the miscellaneous bits and bobs like G clamps for the transom mount i have a few, along with thumb throttles water pipe fittings exhaust clamps etc. I think i have a long drive shaft from something or other which you could easily cut down to whatever measurements you need for your project 102 along with an impeller from a century type motor as long as you intend to use the gearbox currently fitted on your engine as it is now. However, if you can grab this other 102 you might be better off using the gearbox assembly from that. Would be great if this other 102 has a prop too.
I keep my fingers crossed that this pays off for you.

Good luck and well done so far.
Thanks, I will know in a few days what parts can be supplied from the 102 that seagull101 has and is being stripped, the main parts I have booked already.

I connot ship in the larger parts like a gear box due to the weight and the high cost of postage :cry:

When I know whats on its way I will post.

I do still need the 102 drive shaft and gear shift rod but they are not that easy to post, I have the dimensions now and will post those tomorrow.
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blokewithaboat
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by blokewithaboat »

Decision time Roy

As things stand now, this would be the type of prop you need for your 102 bitsa
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seagull-Outb ... SwImRYjzjK



Alternatively you could also revert back to a more conventional 102 gearbox and prop. Easy either way and plenty to choose from.

The reason your thrust block doesn't quite fit snugly with the torque tube is because you have the thicker style of torque tube. Basically you're using the older type of transom clamp/thrust block which works better with thinner sectioned torque tubes found on older seagulls . A more modern looking thrust block might fit a bit better and accommodate the thicker dimensions of the torque tube.
Like this one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-SEAG ... SwN3NcBbP8
This will fit onto the bracket you currently have been using.

Or you could use one of these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-SEAG ... SwJFBcMhib
The only part you'd still need is what i call the rubber donut that fits around the torque tube and engages with thrust block of this modern transom clamp. In a perfect world you'd generally see these types of clamps with motors that have a reverse gear. Seeing as this motor of yours is a bitsa i guess anything goes.

As for the pump housing to gearbox flange, is there a gasket currently fitted in there? The gap i can see in the pics isn't really in a critical area as this is mainly where the exhaust gasses come out. If you do decide to try and bend this straight go gently with it. They are fragile.The important area to consider is around the impeller area. This does need to have a good seal around here. If once it's all back together and you still see a gap between the 2 flanges, i find a smear of rtv fills the gaps well enough to keep the wolf from the door.

Do you have all the screws and fittings for the gearbox? I notice there's a few holes with nothing in them!
I have a clutch fork for this type of gearbox if you need one and probably the rest of the fittings for the prop shaft too.

I also have a couple of 102 gearboxes and a prop or two.


Which direction do you want to go with this project?
Use a modern type gearbox and prop and hope you can find any missing parts you might need from SA, or stick with the overall theme of the 102 and use the tried and tested original parts?
The choice is yours.
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Charles uk
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by Charles uk »

This lower unit was never used on a 102 & will give you some problems making it fit.

The only prop that I can think of for your application is the 4 bladed weed free used on the model 75 & the Curlew.

Did you bead blast that lower unit as they are normally painted.

Can you take a picture of the lower unit with the water pump gasket in place.

As for putting a 4:1 century plus prop on a 2.5:1 lower unit.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
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Hugz
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by Hugz »

I have three ali transom brackets:

ED Direct drive no reverse.
Curlew clutch no reverse.
EFNR clutch with reverse.
blokewithaboat
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by blokewithaboat »

Charles.
You have to bear in mind that what Roy has done so far is quite remarkable considering all of the parts that you see assembled as a non pc looking 102 were donated. It just happens that he's got almost enough parts to build something up that resembles a seagull of sorts even if it does look a little odd at first glance. To me and possibly a few others out there , this is half the fun of building a "bitsa" . It's more about seeing which bits will actually fit together even if they do look a little strange but still function well enough to perform as an outboard.
Question: Does a "bitsa" have to look the same as all the rest? (boring)


Click on the link on my previous post which will take you straight into an ebay auction. I'm confident this prop will fit the gearbox that Roy currently has on his 102.
Could you confirm this please.

As for fitting a non pc 102 gearbox, i've built a 102 bitsa just like Roy's even with the same gearbox albeit with slightly different power head parts. I used a cdi ignition with recoil starting along with an amal 416 carb. I had no problems at all putting it together. Easier than you think actually and runs very well. My bitsa'd 102 has the exact same prop as per the ebay link and was sourced from a model 75.

The only slightly tricky bit with my bitsa'd 102 was making sure the location of the impeller was good inside the pump housing. Once that was done the rest is pretty straight forward.

Of course the easier and perhaps more pc thing to have done right from the start would be to build a conventional looking 102. I don't think that Roy has that luxury at the moment what with the current state of the SA postal service and the difficulty he's experienced just with trying to obtain any parts.
I'm quietly confident that this project will work very nicely once he has all of the critical parts fitted.



Roy
Let me know what sorts of things you're missing and i will see what I've got.
Or you can send me a pm. Happy to help if i can.
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fleetingcontact
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by fleetingcontact »

I have a 46N you can have. Its a bit crusty, is missing the storm cowl and the throttle slide and tickler are stuck so it isn't much, I know. But I have got all the other stuck bits to move (banjo bolt, threads seem good, float chamber cap, cable adjuster). Yours for postage if you want it.
tambikeboy
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by tambikeboy »

I do still need the 102 drive shaft and gear shift rod but they are not that easy to post, I have the dimensions now and will post those tomorrow.
Roy why not get 2 4inch sections of drive shaft and weld round rod in between them at whatever lenth you require how about getting all your bitties shipped via Fred he has a UK address them only half the shipping bill is yours speak nice to him you never know buy him a cuppa and a bakewell tart might work in your favour
Roll me up and smoke me when I die
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african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

fleetingcontact wrote:I have a 46N you can have. Its a bit crusty, is missing the storm cowl and the throttle slide and tickler are stuck so it isn't much, I know. But I have got all the other stuck bits to move (banjo bolt, threads seem good, float chamber cap, cable adjuster). Yours for postage if you want it.
Thanks on your kind offer, accepted! I do have the storm cowl and also the engine crank case, so motor 102 series can now said to be gathering speed?

I will PM you with my address,

Regards Roy
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Charles uk
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by Charles uk »

Isn't the clue in the part number CPC 1409 W for the Century plus, 10.75" diameter

Whereas the 2.5:1 prop part number for the spring drive is C100 1409 for the model 75/curlew, 8" ish diameter

I agree it does look like a 75 prop but £50 & the postage to SA could be a expensive mistake!

As sealed boxes have different length drive shafts, Tam's suggestion is a real good one.

I asked the bead blasting question as oil seals don't last well on the surface that leaves.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
african imp
Posts: 395
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

fleetingcontact wrote:I have a 46N you can have. Its a bit crusty, is missing the storm cowl and the throttle slide and tickler are stuck so it isn't much, I know. But I have got all the other stuck bits to move (banjo bolt, threads seem good, float chamber cap, cable adjuster). Yours for postage if you want it.

Many thanks, I have sent you an email and with my address,

Regards

Roy
african imp
Posts: 395
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

blokewithaboat wrote:Decision time Roy

As things stand now, this would be the type of prop you need for your 102 bitsa
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seagull-Outb ... SwImRYjzjK



Alternatively you could also revert back to a more conventional 102 gearbox and prop. Easy either way and plenty to choose from.

The reason your thrust block doesn't quite fit snugly with the torque tube is because you have the thicker style of torque tube. Basically you're using the older type of transom clamp/thrust block which works better with thinner sectioned torque tubes found on older seagulls . A more modern looking thrust block might fit a bit better and accommodate the thicker dimensions of the torque tube.
Like this one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-SEAG ... SwN3NcBbP8
This will fit onto the bracket you currently have been using.

Or you could use one of these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRITISH-SEAG ... SwJFBcMhib
The only part you'd still need is what i call the rubber donut that fits around the torque tube and engages with thrust block of this modern transom clamp. In a perfect world you'd generally see these types of clamps with motors that have a reverse gear. Seeing as this motor of yours is a bitsa i guess anything goes.

As for the pump housing to gearbox flange, is there a gasket currently fitted in there? The gap i can see in the pics isn't really in a critical area as this is mainly where the exhaust gasses come out. If you do decide to try and bend this straight go gently with it. They are fragile.The important area to consider is around the impeller area. This does need to have a good seal around here. If once it's all back together and you still see a gap between the 2 flanges, i find a smear of rtv fills the gaps well enough to keep the wolf from the door.

Do you have all the screws and fittings for the gearbox? I notice there's a few holes with nothing in them!
I have a clutch fork for this type of gearbox if you need one and probably the rest of the fittings for the prop shaft too.

I also have a couple of 102 gearboxes and a prop or two.

The advice on the drive shaft leg support shows me that I have two (part broken ) plastic supports, also an alloy one, it it Seagull though? Its too wide to fit the engine mount that I have right now.


Which direction do you want to go with this project?
Use a modern type gearbox and prop and hope you can find any missing parts you might need from SA, or stick with the overall theme of the 102 and use the tried and tested original parts?
The choice is yours.
Is my picture number one the correct way to fit and use the alloy saddle ?
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Last edited by african imp on Thu Feb 28, 2019 11:00 am, edited 2 times in total.
african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

The gearbox that I have with the bent lower case will seal around the water pump area, I can easily seal the gap aft with some silicone sealant.


Note, I am now back looking at the original sized gear box that a 102 motor would use, the reason is there is a suitable five blade prop that will match it.


This solves what may be the hardest item to source being the propellor. :P
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Last edited by african imp on Thu Feb 28, 2019 11:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

The replies and ideas to what will make a good assembly has seen me get the correct (?) sized gearbox out again, I started with that, then saw that the pinion gear has been removed, postage to one of those should be cost effective, has anyone got one spare for me?
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