Roys second 102 series build

[Charles uk]

I have serious safety reservations with filling flywheel dinks with epoxy or any filler, at full revs the flywheel surface speed is around 70 mph, a flake of epoxy that comes unstuck could hit you in the face at that speed, the chances are, that as you've sanded & painted the flywheel, they could have sharp edges, not too good for an eye!

[african imp]

The advice from Hugz was good advice !

I had one section of flat bar nearly the correct shape, it was easy to finish the bending and drill one more hole.

The second tang can be done next.

I have turned the tank around so that the fuel line to the carb can be one that I have and a short one.


I really did not expect to reach the stage where fitting the Villiers carb can be a reality, today I proved that the Wipac 2 coil provides a good spark, next I need to fit the carb and a throttle lever to the epoxy bonded control arm that I repaired today


Note, the twist in the 20mm x 4mm mild steel flat bar can be done cold with a large steel bench vice and large adjustable spanner .

[african imp]

I have serious safety reservations with filling flywheel dinks with epoxy or any filler, at full revs the flywheel surface speed is around 70 mph, a flake of epoxy that comes unstuck could hit you in the face at that speed, the chances are, that as you've sanded & painted the flywheel, they could have sharp edges, not too good for an eye!

Thanks on your concern, noted.

The size of the dings were really small, the epoxy bonds super tight and is then coated with twin pack etch primer before the top coats, the paint adds to the bonding.

[african imp]

With the epoxy paste and then the glass fine weave tape and epoxy liquid now cured I have a solid control arm once more, next will be to paint it silver and have it looking sort of normal?

This really has turned out to be an odds and sods parts bin rebuild, still as it started with a seized motor, to get this far is good?

Next is the throttle control and then to fit the Viliers carb and see if we have a runner?

[blokewithaboat]

Roy.
This might run fairly well in a test bin with the engine in neutral. I keep my fingers crossed that it starts relatively easily and that the initial test run goes ok. Few more bits left to sort out first though from what i can see. Looks good though, i like it
Nothing wrong with your choice of gearbox either. I have one the same paired with a 102 power head and 46n 2jet which works very nicely actually with the same period propeller for this box.




However, i feel that the first time you try this combination on the back of a boat you might be disappointed. Engines under load behave differently to engines sitting in test bins running in neutral. The Villiers might not be man enough for the job.
If i could send you a 46n 2jet i would of course. Much less hassle all round.

Best of luck

[african imp]

The tank flange mount on the steering handle side went ok, its not a match for the other side but works well enough.

Note the rather beat up tank, I would need to cut the end off to sort that mess out ?

[african imp]

Roy.
This might run fairly well in a test bin with the engine in neutral. I keep my fingers crossed that it starts relatively easily and that the initial test run goes ok. Few more bits left to sort out first though from what i can see. Looks good though, i like it
Nothing wrong with your choice of gearbox either. I have one the same paired with a 102 power head and 46n 2jet which works very nicely actually with the same period propeller for this box.




However, i feel that the first time you try this combination on the back of a boat you might be disappointed. Engines under load behave differently to engines sitting in test bins running in neutral. The Villiers might not be man enough for the job.
If i could send you a 46n 2jet i would of course. Much less hassle all round.

Best of luck

Thanks and understood, I am more intersted in will the motor run?

As I have no boat to try the motor on, I will not be doing an active wet test just jet.

I also have no drive shaft or impellor, or a propellor come to that !

The correct Amal would be nice and who knows what the future will deliver ?

[african imp]

The painting went as before, bead blast the old paints off, wash the cleaned metal with Teepol Orange liquid soad to degrease if any paint remover was involved, then apply some Dulux twin pack hi build etch primer to the bare metal.

The gold top coat came from a Plascon paints rattle can, Plascon are makers of top quality paints and to a similar standard as Dulux.

For the block I have used black DTM (direct to metal ) paints made by Duram, another quality paint manufacturer.

[african imp]

This 102 engine has been fitted with a spare Seagull Villiers carb, as I do not have the correct Amal 2 jet carburetor.

With a 10:1 petrol to 2 stoke fuel mix in the tank, I had the engine running on the third pull of the starter cord

I had to use a hand throttle control as I do not have a throttle cable that is long enough to reach around the flywheel and to the throttle control lever.

Job done, whats next as this is my last British Seagull engine, it was brought back from the dead after being seized near solid.

[Charles uk]

Did I miss the explanation of why it was seized & what stopped the piston coming out?

Just about all the tiller arm repairs I've heard about involved a bit of broom handle or stick hammered up the inside with glue of some sort as a lube, & filler to hide the scar, a sticking plaster over the wound seems a lot more honest!

[african imp]

Did I miss the explanation of why it was seized & what stopped the piston coming out?

Just about all the tiller arm repairs I've heard about involved a bit of broom handle or stick hammered up the inside with glue of some sort as a lube, & filler to hide the scar, sticking plaster over the wound seems a lot more honest!

My feeling on the stuck piston was / is that the engine had run just enough to bed the bore in and with just enough wear at the top of the piston stroke to allow a little movement there.

Then and as the piston came to the bottom of the bore things tightened up, the top ring was bonded in with a calcium looking substance 100%, it was very hard and I had to break the top ring to remove it and then scrape the groove clean.

The second ring was only partially stuck and freed off eventually, I left that ring in place, it was not removed.

It seems that when the engine was last run the petrol to 2 stroke mix was wrong, was it 2 stroke oil I wonder? it formed the calcium or whatever it was and then the piston was stuck.

When the top ring was removed and a spare fitted the piston fitted the bore and moved either way as it should.

[Hugz]

You can make a longer throttle cable from bicycle brake cable. Either from a cycle shop or from a dumped bike. Use the ends to make a mold. Search the threads on this forum to find it.

[african imp]

You can make a longer throttle cable from bicycle brake cable. Either from a cycle shop or from a dumped bike. Use the ends to make a mold. Search the threads on this forum to find it.

Thanks !

We do have a cycle shop in the village, I will pay them a visit and see can they assist with the longer cable?

[african imp]

Now that the engine has been run a few times I can report that throttle response is good, I notice no difference between this 102 series and the Forty series with the same sized carburetor.

There is no exhaust smoke either, so as I suspected I think this motor has very few hours on it?


The camera is a Canon G11 which will now be ten years old, check the way it has stopped the flywheel black plastic cover but we can still see the gold paint is spinning.


I should say that this 102 engine and assembly rebuild was an interesting adventure, as up until this engine I have never needed to open one up to remove and then rebuild and engine.

Rebuilds of Hillman Imp engines many many times, British Seagull engines never

My thanks to those who offered advice.

[blokewithaboat]

Roy
As and when you manage to get the correct carb for this you might find that when the motor is put into gear and run for a few minutes in the test bin it might smoke a bit more than it does right now.
As the engine currently is right now when you've run it, it's basically not under very much load at all. All would seem ok you might think, and hence not very much smoke.
Even at 25:1 fuel mix, most of my later seagulls belch out smoke to some degree while on the back of a boat. Quite a lot actually. 10:1 is quite a bit more smokey still.


I have my own ideas on why it seized. I'm leaning towards the fuel chemistry having an effect on localized corrosion between the rings and piston ring lands. That and not being used for years won't have done it much good either.
I'm sure others will have their view on things.

Main thing is you now have a running (nearly complete) seagull of sorts. Well done for that.

As for tillers, if having a never ending source of spare parts to hand was possible for you, i think it would be easy to say that you would have fitted one that wasn't bent to begin with. As this isn't the case you've had to make do with what you've got, again well done for that. I think what Charles was trying to say with how you repaired the bent tiller was how strong it will be and its ability to resist bending again. A length of broomstick or wooden dowel would be the obvious solution, but you've done the best you can with what was to hand. Well done again.

It seems a great shame that the SA postal service is so crappy for you or there would be a big box of bits making its way to you right now.

Look forward to seeing how this seagull turns out when its finished.