Corrosion Protection

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RickUK
Posts: 486
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Location: Huntingdon

Re: Corrosion Protection

Post by RickUK »

I used to use a fairly stiff solution of one of these car 'wash and wax' products in my test tank, with the theory being that the stuff is pH neutral, and the water evaporates, leaving a wax film in all the recesses of the water jacket cast surface.
I have no proof positive that this was effective, coupled with the fact that my motors only ever saw fresh water use!

The test tank always retained the solution, so there was never the ongoing problem of making in a solution up probably when you least feel like being bothered, and it did seem to dissolve the exhaust gloop from the surface of the water.
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Collector Inspector
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Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
Location: Perth Western Australia
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Re: Corrosion Protection

Post by Collector Inspector »

Been a while since active.

Run ya motor in a tub of soluble oil and water mix after using in a salt environment.......2 or 3 minutes is fine.

Soluble oil is like using in boilers or other. Similar to cutting oil in water.......slightly milky white is what ya want. Lathe oil or cutting oil whatever. You do not need a lot take note.

Now what is the problem with attaching a zinc anode to the motor?

The zinc can be any size or shape to be either look how clever I am sort of thing down to a closely monitored washer or similar......up to you aye.

The zinc protects while you are sleeping or waiting for the ice to melt all by itself.........in the dark.

There is a pretext for BS to galvanize bits...........

BnC
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
Gannet
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Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:47 pm
Location: Cirencester

Re: Corrosion Protection

Post by Gannet »

Rick,
I like the idea of using a 'wash and wax' addition to the test tub. Especially if it gets rid of the oily mess on the surface. I will give it a go.

Bruce,
I am sure that you realise that the anode needs to be in contact wth an electolyte (ie water) and what is being protected also needs to be in contact with the same electrolyte to establish a path between the two. That sounds difficult to arrange under storage conditions - or have I misunderstood something again?

Jeremy
Janzip
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Location: Finland

Re: Corrosion Protection

Post by Janzip »

Hello everyone with internal rust problems,
I have a special tank for running my outboards in, before putting them away for a longer time. The tank has a solution of 30% anti-freeze, intended for winter use in cars, 70% of water. It doesn't freeze until -20 degrees Celsius, and does not freeze solid even in temperatures below that, just into a creamy type of stuff, does not expand as much as water does when frozen, so it can be left in the cooling waterways all winter even if the outboard is stored in outdoors temperatures. The anti-freeze prevents car engines from rusting inside, it does the same on outboards. After a number of runs with two-stroke engines the solution in the tank gets oily and that is just what is good for cast iron and aluminium.
So, fill your test wheelie bin with the same mixture as you put in your car's cooling system for the winter, run the outboard for a couple of minutes and all it's waterways are good for a couple of year's storage.
Besides, this gives you the possibility to test your outboards in sub-zero temperatures! No freezing test tanks!

Does a Seagull run too cold if the cooling water temperature is below -20 degrees Celsius? No mentions about that in the manuals!
Maybe restrict the outflow of water in the outlet so it warms up before spraying out?

Janzip
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Charles uk
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Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
Location: Maidenhead Berks UK

Re: Corrosion Protection

Post by Charles uk »

There is mention of increasing the main jet size, for running in cold climates.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Grumpy
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Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:22 am
Location: Auckland

Re: Corrosion Protection

Post by Grumpy »

Like a lot here I used wd40 for nearly everything from lawnmowers chainsaws seagulls. fishing gear etc etc.
I have lately been talked into another Aussie product ,or at least my container says its made in Queensland ".INOX "
I was always pleased with my gear after being oiled or just sprayed with wd 40 but for whatever indefinable reason I now prefer the INOX I Do not know if it is any better than anything else for internal preservation of seagull heads etc but after messing around with the stuff I seem to be coated with it giving me a belief its good. And it dries out quite quickly without setting hard.
My better half reckons I am even more slippery than ever.
On sale days at a local store I can pick up 5 litres for around NZ $60
I suppose that sometime in the future, hopefully as distant as possible I will learn that I have polluted the entire southern hemisphere and destroyed all fish and marine life therein.
Hopefully my gear will still be working though and in bright sparkling condition.
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Nudge
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Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Re: Corrosion Protection

Post by Nudge »

I find if I use my engine and flush it in fresh water after use it is fine. The only other thing I do with my silver after the fresh water flush / wash is blow air through the water outlet hole.

Use your engines!
"THE KING OF BLING"!
Is it better to over think, than not think at all?
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