Forgive me for maybe reposting an already discussed topic, but my gull has no water flow and can't find a discussion on it.
Since my last post, I've changed to a new spark plug, cleaned it up, cleaned the carb and tank, actually got back flow sending water into the exhaust port, filled the lower unit with 140, and she started up after a few pulls, but now no water flow. How deep should it be in a bucket of water? Your tips are welcome. Thanks in advance.
No water flow
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Norway gull
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2017 3:58 pm
- Location: Oslo, Norway
No water flow
You're only as young as the girl you feel.
Re: No water flow
If your trying it in a bucket, take the prop off and try again! Sometimes that can help.
If that doesn't work then it is time to look a little closer.
Start with the easy stuff first!
If that doesn't work then it is time to look a little closer.
Start with the easy stuff first!
"THE KING OF BLING"!
Is it better to over think, than not think at all?
Is it better to over think, than not think at all?
Re: No water flow
Yes, the propeller will turn the water into a aerated mass and thus the water intake will draw in a lot of air, hence nudges suggestion to remove the prop. Try that and report back.
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Collector Inspector
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
- Location: Perth Western Australia
- Contact:
Re: No water flow
So how did it go then.
Post pics.
We love pics aye.
BnC
Post pics.
We love pics aye.
BnC
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
Re: No water flow
I've had the same problem - no water flow. While I haven't been running it in a bucket, I do use a large barrel. I'll try it with the prop off and report back. Thanks!
Bill in Seattle
Bill in Seattle
Re: No water flow
Mine (Forty Plus) had some water flow in a very large barrel, but not as much as hoped for. After being sidetracked for months with other chores, I pulled the cylinder head a couple of days ago and found the water passages about half blocked with soft rust that should be easily cleaned up. I started a series of pictures to post as I get going on the cleanup. A soon as I get a few more I'll upload to my photo host and put them here in the Forum.
Even though I should be able to anneal and reuse the head gasket, I ordered one from John just to have a backup. He mentioned that I should check the inlet port from the water tube as it sometimes get really crusted up. I checked it with a bent probe and it feels soft and easy to clean so I should be good to go. Will try to at least start the cleanup this afternoon and maybe even finish it up.
Also, rather than heat the head bolts, I first tried a nice low-power impact wrench that I have trusted on bolts down to M6. Bolts loosened instantly with no fuss even though when I tried them with a spanner, they wouldn't budge and I dared not twist too hard.
Even though I should be able to anneal and reuse the head gasket, I ordered one from John just to have a backup. He mentioned that I should check the inlet port from the water tube as it sometimes get really crusted up. I checked it with a bent probe and it feels soft and easy to clean so I should be good to go. Will try to at least start the cleanup this afternoon and maybe even finish it up.
Also, rather than heat the head bolts, I first tried a nice low-power impact wrench that I have trusted on bolts down to M6. Bolts loosened instantly with no fuss even though when I tried them with a spanner, they wouldn't budge and I dared not twist too hard.
Re: No water flow
Next installment ....
The point of this comes nearer the end.....Not applicable to a closed cooling system like cars & Jeeps, but today I finished cleaning water passages in the cast iron cylinder of my 1969 British Seagull outboard (cylinder head removed). After previously scraping some powdery thick rust and scale, today I used a vacuum nozzle for computer cleaning and a couple of tube brushes to attack the layer adhered to the metal. Not totally satisfied, I then layed the motor over at an angle to keep liquid in the cylinder passages and not draining down to the water pump. Poured in CLR and brushed most of remaining rust out. Twice. Flushed vigorously with water from cylinder downward and water pump upward.
Now the point: Grabbed a can of Remoil gun cleaning oil which not only oils, but cleans somewhat - actually all but primer fouling from what I've observed. Sprayed it about to prevent new flash rust. And was surprised to see it flushed even more of the loosened rust out of the passages right down to clean cast iron. This combo treatment is good to know when cleaning and preserving cast iron or steel parts outside of an intact cooling system where simply blasting/brushing and oiling isn't a suitable method.
I've been snapping pics of the process and will post soon when I button it back up in the next couple of days. I plan to use a new head gasket bought from John and cleaning/annealing the old gasket for a spare.
My big question, which way does a new gasket go in? Mine has a number stamped in one side and the ring around the cylinder bore is raised in the same direction slightly. What say ye old heads/experts?
BTW, cylinder bore looks as good as the sellers estimate of total hours run between his uncle and self - one family motor when I bought it. Runs good for me and I just wanted to optimize the cooling system.
The point of this comes nearer the end.....Not applicable to a closed cooling system like cars & Jeeps, but today I finished cleaning water passages in the cast iron cylinder of my 1969 British Seagull outboard (cylinder head removed). After previously scraping some powdery thick rust and scale, today I used a vacuum nozzle for computer cleaning and a couple of tube brushes to attack the layer adhered to the metal. Not totally satisfied, I then layed the motor over at an angle to keep liquid in the cylinder passages and not draining down to the water pump. Poured in CLR and brushed most of remaining rust out. Twice. Flushed vigorously with water from cylinder downward and water pump upward.
Now the point: Grabbed a can of Remoil gun cleaning oil which not only oils, but cleans somewhat - actually all but primer fouling from what I've observed. Sprayed it about to prevent new flash rust. And was surprised to see it flushed even more of the loosened rust out of the passages right down to clean cast iron. This combo treatment is good to know when cleaning and preserving cast iron or steel parts outside of an intact cooling system where simply blasting/brushing and oiling isn't a suitable method.
I've been snapping pics of the process and will post soon when I button it back up in the next couple of days. I plan to use a new head gasket bought from John and cleaning/annealing the old gasket for a spare.
My big question, which way does a new gasket go in? Mine has a number stamped in one side and the ring around the cylinder bore is raised in the same direction slightly. What say ye old heads/experts?
BTW, cylinder bore looks as good as the sellers estimate of total hours run between his uncle and self - one family motor when I bought it. Runs good for me and I just wanted to optimize the cooling system.