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Charles uk
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Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
Location: Maidenhead Berks UK

Re: New member

Post by Charles uk »

The Atom came in several different colours (colour denoted timing) How does this device know when to let the spark go for a Seagull?
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
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atoyot
Posts: 238
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 11:01 am
Location: Delaware, USA
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Re: New member

Post by atoyot »

This site mentions the advisability of using a timing light to determine if the coil needs to be moved for the sake of timing:

http://vkakarting.com/replacing-points- ... on-module/

The 40+ I put one in seems OK as it is, though it would not hurt a bit to check it out. I also use one in a Nissan 3.5 hp (1994?), though it kicks like a mule upon starter cord pull. That one for sure, I want to play with some more when I don't plan on going out for a while.
There is nothing so useless as doing efficiently that which should not be done at all.
- Prof. Peter Drucker
hairyjim
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2017 6:36 pm
Location: Gillingham kent

Re: New member

Post by hairyjim »

Mmm.looks like an option to bring it all up the modern age..I'm thinking about using the wipac in the 40+ now and transferring the Villiers coil to the century.there doesn't seem to be a condenser under the points on the century like the 40+ either. There's a black socket that looks like an after thought of a shorting device
..emergency stop lanyard???..it's just a wire from the coil to a black round single non electrically connected to earth style plastic socket.does nothing.. If it had a condenser on it ide understand but it is like an empty plastic condenser style unit but with NO earth connection at all.plastic not metal..no internal metal connects to the earth..at all..useless addition..cut it off and it won't affect anything. No idea what it was put there for..does nothing.. Shorted or open circuit.???anyways..the century coil reads open circuit and points short with resistance range.read on here before I had the need to about the wipac swap and I believe it was mentioned that the whole shabang needed changing so its gonna be about the same cost at the end but cheaper to replace if any bit went wrong later.. Also the recoil starter can be fitted with a wipac and that will save me getting my fingers pecked again if I'm a bit forgetful.I'm back on the boat with just the 40+.century is in my brothers shed waiting a flywheel removal and further investigation..interesting..
Keith.P
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Re: New member

Post by Keith.P »

Wipac has a internal condenser, both can be setup with a recoil starter.
hairyjim
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2017 6:36 pm
Location: Gillingham kent

Re: New member

Post by hairyjim »

Oh.thought it was just the wipac with recoil.looks like I'm gonna have to have a blooming good think about what to do next then.had a bit of a submersion with the 40+ the other day getting it off the dinghy but it was tied on so never got totally lost.. Oops.im thinking if i can get the 40± more modernised and safer finger wise and use the bits leftover on the century...or maybe dare I say...get another gull..and have a doner or rebuild on the go.. I've just spent a month stuck on a local mud/marsh island waiting for the high tide and wind to get me off so been a bit stressful to say the least.seagull and dinghy were very usefull.I'm back in the main river now with no working diesel lump due to a full cabin flood and all the electrics getting nawsed up with the salt water.so its coming out and an outboard going on..maybe the century later but I've got an old Johnson 4hp 1969 jobby that's probably gonna do a fair job. lts not the most powerful of engines but I'm not after speed boat power and it will double up with the century once its done.two seagulls would look nice on the back and give a good reliable cheap power source too.am I getting the gull bug???maybe I'm getting infected with a human form of bird flu.
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