water flow affecting my blood flow
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water flow affecting my blood flow
Trying to get water flow from my seagull...Tried removing head, cleaned it out...,put hose on the head flow hole....,it came ot the bottom intake.......,turned it upside down,put the hose in the bottom intake........water flowed out the head hole......,put on a new rotor in it...started it up no water flow,i really am ready to skip this engine.....it starts ok but just cant get water to flow.
you live and learn, then you die and forget it all.
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
I guess if it was me, and I was sure the water jacket was clear.. I'd remove the exhaust clamp, lower the exhaust tube, disconnect the water pipe and start the engine. If water flows out the top of the disconnected water pipe, then the water is pumping up ok - problem is on the top end. Otherwise impeller problems, blocked water pipe etc would be where to look.
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headdownarseup
- Posts: 2484
- Joined: Thu Apr 04, 2013 2:26 pm
- Location: bristol
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
First things first.
I'm assuming your seagull is a square block engine, either a 40 or 100 type engine. (the serial number will help identify what you've got)
Just because you can get water to flow from both ends doesn't mean that the waterjacket is perfectly clear.
The cylinder is made from cast iron which will rust INTERNALLY like there's no tomorrow if it hasn't been looked after for many a year. It's a very common thing on old seagulls, especially after coming out of a lengthy hibernation.
The first thing to do is remove the cylinder head. Gently does it now, don't try this without first heating the block with a blowtorch BEFORE you try a spanner on the bolts. 9 times out of 10 if you heat them FIRST to a dull cherry red there's little trouble. (you can re-paint the block afterwards)
With the head removed it's much easier to see why the engine won't pump any water.
Probably an easier job to remove the entire powerhead from the lower drive unit, 2 nuts at the top of the drive tube where it attaches is basically all that's holding the 2 components together. Take your time with it and don't rush. It's just nuts and bolts and a few screws. These things are dead easy to work on, nothing really complicated about them, they're just old fashioned. Heat and a gentle thump with a hammer in the right places will soon have it apart.
As for impellers, there's very little need to replace them unless they're completely wrecked! They're not like a modern outboard impeller as they don't have a contact fit like a modern rubber impeller you'd find on a modern outboard. Having said that, the steel shaft your impeller is attached to will also rust, and if you're really unlucky will cause the metal to swell and split the plastic impeller. I've only ever seen 1 do this before now, apart from that they really are tuff as old boots.
Chances are that the waterjacket is a bit bunged up with crud and it's struggling to pump any water through. Once you've got it cleaned out it should be as good as new.
Another thought, have you tried running the motor without the prop attached. I take it you're running in a bin of some sort?
If you need any more help just ask
One of us will jump in
Jon
I'm assuming your seagull is a square block engine, either a 40 or 100 type engine. (the serial number will help identify what you've got)
Just because you can get water to flow from both ends doesn't mean that the waterjacket is perfectly clear.
The cylinder is made from cast iron which will rust INTERNALLY like there's no tomorrow if it hasn't been looked after for many a year. It's a very common thing on old seagulls, especially after coming out of a lengthy hibernation.
The first thing to do is remove the cylinder head. Gently does it now, don't try this without first heating the block with a blowtorch BEFORE you try a spanner on the bolts. 9 times out of 10 if you heat them FIRST to a dull cherry red there's little trouble. (you can re-paint the block afterwards)
With the head removed it's much easier to see why the engine won't pump any water.
Probably an easier job to remove the entire powerhead from the lower drive unit, 2 nuts at the top of the drive tube where it attaches is basically all that's holding the 2 components together. Take your time with it and don't rush. It's just nuts and bolts and a few screws. These things are dead easy to work on, nothing really complicated about them, they're just old fashioned. Heat and a gentle thump with a hammer in the right places will soon have it apart.
As for impellers, there's very little need to replace them unless they're completely wrecked! They're not like a modern outboard impeller as they don't have a contact fit like a modern rubber impeller you'd find on a modern outboard. Having said that, the steel shaft your impeller is attached to will also rust, and if you're really unlucky will cause the metal to swell and split the plastic impeller. I've only ever seen 1 do this before now, apart from that they really are tuff as old boots.
Chances are that the waterjacket is a bit bunged up with crud and it's struggling to pump any water through. Once you've got it cleaned out it should be as good as new.
Another thought, have you tried running the motor without the prop attached. I take it you're running in a bin of some sort?
If you need any more help just ask
One of us will jump in
Jon
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
I thought if water flows both ways it cant be blocked...I have got the head off, so I think I will take the whole thing off tomorrow and see what the problem is...yes I am running it in a bin.
thx for both of ur replys
thx for both of ur replys
you live and learn, then you die and forget it all.
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
It may be that the pressure coming from your hose is a lot higher than from the impeller. Hose can push water past blockages, impeller can't?
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
You say your running it in a bin.
Here is an idea...
Take the prop off! You may find the water flow from he prop is stopping the watter going into the water intake. Try this before you take the engine apart!
Here is an idea...
Take the prop off! You may find the water flow from he prop is stopping the watter going into the water intake. Try this before you take the engine apart!
"THE KING OF BLING"!
Is it better to over think, than not think at all?
Is it better to over think, than not think at all?
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
I have been starting it out of gear ..does it need to be in gear to pump water,...because I have had it totally apart and I cant find any blockage
you live and learn, then you die and forget it all.
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
Doesn't need to be in gear to pump, but it may need to have the throttle open past idle speeds, just incase you haven't tried revving it up. I'd definitely try lowering the exhaust and disconnect the water tube, then start and see if you get water out of the tube, that way you can narrow down the problem.
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
the impellar...say top on it, so it is facing the top of the engine
you live and learn, then you die and forget it all.
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
stripped it today took the head completely off...water was flowing out the open head down the copper tube ..... never seen any blockages anywhere....so I put it all back together...and tomorrow I will tighten head gasket and start it up..if water does not flow in it tomorrow...its going to seagull heaven.....
you live and learn, then you die and forget it all.
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headdownarseup
- Posts: 2484
- Joined: Thu Apr 04, 2013 2:26 pm
- Location: bristol
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
There's a couple of things that spring to mind.
1 Is the impeller fitted the correct way around? (the round disc uppermost fits neatly into the underside of the pump housing cavity) Does it have sufficient clearance between the pump housing gasket and the aperture that the impeller whizzes around inside? This can make a difference to water flow.
2 Is the water delivery pipe correctly located at both ends?
3 Is the pump housing to gearbox face nicely sealed? Did you use a new gasket and some silicone sealer to re-seal this joint? Are the screws/bolts tight enough? (sounds daft i know but it happens) If it's got a leak in here it will REALLY struggle to get any water up into the block.
4 and of course the nitty gritty bit of getting inside the water jacket itself.
If the first 3 check out fine, the chances are it'll be crud blocking somewhere in a hard to reach area inside the water jacket. The only way to remedy this is to remove the head and dig around with screwdrivers,picks even a small masonry drill bit will work really well at breaking up the corrosion. Remove the brass fitting at the bottom of the cylinder where the delivery pipe attaches. There will often be a "plug" of rust right at the bottom of the threads. Everything inside the water jacket as best as you can must be free of rust.
The impeller can't really provide that much in the way of water pressure. It merely "pushes" water around instead of pressurising the water.
Any restriction big or small within the water jacket will cause a very poor flow. Any misfitting/misaligned gaskets on the pump housing to gearcase face will also give you some trouble. (silicone sealant helps in here but not too much)
Running in a bin shouldn't really do any harm. However, if you've got a clutch use it. If it's a direct drive model then remove the prop first.
Static water pressure from the prop's disturbance (particularly in a bin) will also prevent water from being drawn into the pump housing through the slots, hence either use the clutch or ditch the prop.
It can't be much now stopping it. You've had it apart already, probably something really simple.
Jon
1 Is the impeller fitted the correct way around? (the round disc uppermost fits neatly into the underside of the pump housing cavity) Does it have sufficient clearance between the pump housing gasket and the aperture that the impeller whizzes around inside? This can make a difference to water flow.
2 Is the water delivery pipe correctly located at both ends?
3 Is the pump housing to gearbox face nicely sealed? Did you use a new gasket and some silicone sealer to re-seal this joint? Are the screws/bolts tight enough? (sounds daft i know but it happens) If it's got a leak in here it will REALLY struggle to get any water up into the block.
4 and of course the nitty gritty bit of getting inside the water jacket itself.
If the first 3 check out fine, the chances are it'll be crud blocking somewhere in a hard to reach area inside the water jacket. The only way to remedy this is to remove the head and dig around with screwdrivers,picks even a small masonry drill bit will work really well at breaking up the corrosion. Remove the brass fitting at the bottom of the cylinder where the delivery pipe attaches. There will often be a "plug" of rust right at the bottom of the threads. Everything inside the water jacket as best as you can must be free of rust.
The impeller can't really provide that much in the way of water pressure. It merely "pushes" water around instead of pressurising the water.
Any restriction big or small within the water jacket will cause a very poor flow. Any misfitting/misaligned gaskets on the pump housing to gearcase face will also give you some trouble. (silicone sealant helps in here but not too much)
Running in a bin shouldn't really do any harm. However, if you've got a clutch use it. If it's a direct drive model then remove the prop first.
Static water pressure from the prop's disturbance (particularly in a bin) will also prevent water from being drawn into the pump housing through the slots, hence either use the clutch or ditch the prop.
It can't be much now stopping it. You've had it apart already, probably something really simple.
Jon
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tambikeboy
- Posts: 842
- Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2016 2:01 pm
- Location: Scotland
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
This might sound far out but is your impeller hard or sort had one do exactly as you say only to discover that the impeller had gone soft (right china's please explain why that happened )Alfabud wrote:the impellar...say top on it, so it is facing the top of the engine
Roll me up and smoke me when I die
Regret is just a memory written on my brow
Regret is just a memory written on my brow
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
If the impeller is fitted correctly, and I think you said you fitted a brand new impeller,and you've scraped all the junk out of the block, then my money would be on the water delivery pipe having slipped out of place at one end or the other. It's very easy to happen when you are putting things back together and has happened to me in the past.2 Is the water delivery pipe correctly located at both ends?
Re: water flow affecting my blood flow
I am going to look at all these things tomorrow....9/6/17...I will let you know how it goes...thx for all of the replys
you live and learn, then you die and forget it all.