fvp7089

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headdownarseup
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Re: fvp7089

Post by headdownarseup »

Is this the same engine that had the tank mounts re-welded on the cylinder head?

Good job if it is.
I like too :P
Keith.P
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Re: fvp7089

Post by Keith.P »

It looks to be the one, but I think Tam used sellotape. :shock:
headdownarseup
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Re: fvp7089

Post by headdownarseup »

shhh (i use bubblegum when nobody's looking)
:lol:
tambikeboy
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Re: fvp7089

Post by tambikeboy »

Same head china's the wee dremel done the rest..... :lol: sellotape is kept with the zip ties (awe naw here we go again honey I'm home) :evil: :evil: just hate mentioning them things. .... :lol:
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tambikeboy
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Re: fvp7089

Post by tambikeboy »

:roll: why use metal one's to start with. ....
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headdownarseup
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Re: fvp7089

Post by headdownarseup »

In the interests of trying to keep things as "original" as possible (as some of us do) then for me anyway it's steel gaskets all the way for these earlier motors.
For those that are not so "fussy", then go with paper and copper gaskets. They fit well enough so why not! Easy to get hold of and cheap enough to have more than a couple of sets. Although it's worth mentioning a paper gasket is much thinner than a steel gasket, so be mindful that it doesn't mess around too much with port timings. You can always add a bit more paper at the bottom of the cylinder to bring things back into line again.

Interesting looking at this old advert that the SJM would be treated in the same way. I have a very old SJM that has a steel head gasket (a re-used one at that) with a paper base gasket. It runs like an expensive swiss watch despite having been taken apart at least twice and put back together in the same format.
I also have an LLS but with the more conventional paper at the bottom and copper at the top.

It's only when we take these apart that we start to see if any original bits and bobs are still in place.

Each to their own. As long as they run without any problems that's all that matters.

Jon
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Re: fvp7089

Post by Keith.P »

I had a look around for any reference to this Bostik 771 and only found one, it was on a vintage military vehicle site, as it seems to be unavailable the closes bostik product now would be the super bostik gasket sealer a neutral curing black polymeric sealant.
tambikeboy
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Re: fvp7089

Post by tambikeboy »

Lookin forward to getting in about this tank tomorrow any suggestions welcome was thinking end cap removal and replacing tank protector might be tricky all one part :lol:
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tambikeboy
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Re: fvp7089

Post by tambikeboy »

:lol:
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Nudge
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Re: fvp7089

Post by Nudge »

If it is soft soldered on it should be easy.... heat it up and it should fall off.
If it is hard solder then you may have to cut the end off.

Good luck with it, keep the pics comming.
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tambikeboy
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Re: fvp7089

Post by tambikeboy »

Initially thought of removing end cap and replacing the complete tank protector looks to be to big of a mission now thinking of just adding a small copper tube over the top of the stump any thoughts welcome. .. :lol:
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Nudge
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Re: fvp7089

Post by Nudge »

Could you weld the broken part back on?
It is stainless steel right?? Or are they monel?

If you where closer (or want to ship it to New Zealand) I would weld it up for you.
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tambikeboy
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Re: fvp7089

Post by tambikeboy »

Thanks for the offer china but the tank is brass the headmaster has put me in the right direction ie soldering shall give it a go tomorrow cheers
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Nudge
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Re: fvp7089

Post by Nudge »

Are you going to drill and pin a part on it, Or take the tank apart and replace the part?
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tambikeboy
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Re: fvp7089

Post by tambikeboy »

I'm hoping to fill copper pipe with solder then solder the copper pipe to the stub hopefully. .. :lol:
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