Saving Old Seagulls

Collector Inspector wrote:A spark at the points means that the condenser is on the way out.

The sparking points will require regular cleaning and re-setting as they burn away.

BnC

not good news,

I got a bit of time today so I had another go cleaning up the points, still getting a spark at the plug but nothing that will fire the engine yet




I am going to have another go in a couple of weeks

I had a bit of time today so I tried again to see if I can get the Seagull to start
I started off by running my other seagull, it started first pull so I took off the Carb and put it on the Little forty, I swapped over the sparkplugs, I put fresh fuel into the little forty, cleaned the points again and checked the plug gap, pulled the cord and not a thing!
I'm getting a spark at the plug but maybe not enough to ignite the fuel, From what I have been told on here it sounds like the condenser has gone, does replacing it mean I have to remove the flywheel? or can I take off the old one with the flywheel on, I might go the whole hog and buy both a Coil and condenser

As its going to be Villiers ignition, you will have to remove the flywheel, you will also need to remove the nuts from underneath the stator plate, they don't always come apart easily.

Another point worth mentioning is the "little model 40's" have a smaller carb than your usual 40 series seagull. They are quite specific as to what they fit. Smaller carbs on the FV,FVP,LS,LM and very early SJM/P, (perhaps the exception being the first model F's as they have a cute little Amal carb) the bigger carb fits on everything after this. I made the same mistake a while back on an LS and couldn't work out why it wouldn't run right till i looked at the size of the carb against the inlet of the engine block. Obvious when you look at it subjectively.

Off with the flywheel and baseplate and look for another ignition system (but re-fit your original flywheel as it will have the manufacture date)
Heat is your best friend with some of this, and don't rush it. Baseplate securing screws can be a real pain to remove at times. Gently does it! Heat and molegrips works for me.

Help always here if you need it
Good luck


Jon

that helps a lot Kieth and Jon
I saw a video of how to take the flywheel off a while back, the heat tip for screws is useful
I only put a different carb on to see if I could get it to at least fire up
one more thing, can you see the photos I put on here or am I doing something wrong?

The photos are all good. I can see most of what's going on. Plenty of close up details which is also good.


Jon

I thought it would be a struggle removing the flywheel but a couple of taps with a hammer while I held the flywheel and it's off

Yes, its normally fairly easy. If you are planning to use the engine, I would replace the coil, points and condensor. You know that you have a full set of reliable parts then.

The baseplate came off just as easy,

the nuts that I assumed held the points on just came right off


however I am unsure how to get the points off to see the Condenser


I guess the Seagulls former owner took this apart on a regular basis, nothing is overtight and everything is greased up nice

Sorry I missed your reply Oyster, actually I am only wanting to get it running, having said that I might end up becoming a hopeless addict
with a bigger shed and some divorce papers, if she sees this on the kitchen table she will be louder than any seagull

Stick the 2 small nuts back on a few turns and give them a light tap you might find the whole studs come through no worries it will come to you then peel back the thin layer of paper and there's your condenser. ..

tambikerboy wrote:Stick the 2 small nuts back on a few turns and give them a light tap you might find the whole studs come through no worries it will come to you then peel back the thin layer of paper and there's your condenser. ..

Thanks Tam, it's too dark now and I have a fire breathing Dragon in the sitting room

STUMP I SHALL KEEP. ......cable ties for sale....