Saving Old Seagulls

It should just slide out after the retaining screw is removed. It the jet holder. You might have to tap it out with a piece of wood dowel or similar and a mallet.

Thanks again Oyster, it came out with a few taps of a rubber mallet, I was trying to push it through the wrong way
I have cleaned it and cleaned it and will clean it all again before I put it back together

Looks like your going the full hog steven keep it up....


you spelt Sturgeon wrong  ......
You do know iv been asked to stand at the border and take your brown trout money so join that other one if you wish. AS stated on another topic it might be better with 2 knobs to balance things out......

Yes Tam I have plenty of time right now

I'd be checking out the needle size whilst I was in there should that carb slider not be brass (just thinking out loud) over to you keith. ....

I just checked and you are right Tam the one in this photo is from a newer Carb, when I swapped carbs I left the original slider attached to the throttle cable, the one in the picture is from my 86 featherweight

Carb is now cleaned and it's now back together, the Magneto base complete with coil, (still no luck freeing the screws) is in the oven on a low heat, I read that on here, now I can get to the points I can double check the gaps then tomorrow I am following the advice from Tam and others and will put a drill on the top and give it a good 10 minute spin
Fingers crossed
PS is using the 2 stroke oil in the piston chamber while it spins a good idea or should I be using a lighter oil for that?

Only do this if you have to! with the carb fitted & 10 : 1 in the fuel tank & the fuel turned on, remove plug.

Most experienced two stroke guys wouldn't do this if you paid them!

What does anyone expect it to achieve?

Most experienced two stroke guys wouldn't do this if you paid them!

What
does anyone expect it to achieve? Been there done that got the tee shirt and awe that and yes it worked
Why i don't know done it in 3 different oocasions now let's see who else has tried it with success don't ask me to explain it just ask yourself are you willing to try it if so make sure it's well lubed can't make it any worse it will either kill it our cure it in theory it's dead before you started now let me fire a spanner into the works I've never tried it with an electric drill always been an air drill now i will sit on the fence and wait for the gods to call. .....

Some do it that way, some don't, I have a good idea why it works with a drill, but I have never needed to do it that way.
plus I don't want to over tighten the flywheel or have a cordless with me every time I take a motor on the river, if I can not get a motor to start after two or three pulls, I know something's not right.
I suppose the question is, would you use a drill to start any other more modern outboard.

I think the magnets are fine, they feel good and strong to me, I have spark, not a good one but a spark and after I changed the HT lead I am getting the spark at the plug, Charles says that means the coil isn't completely dead, I wondered if another reason I can't get a better one is because I don't seem to be able to pull the cord fast enough to generate a good enough charge, spark plug in place, the flywheel stops almost as soon as the cord pulls off, spark plug out it spins for a while, as you all know I don't know anything about engines and I wondered my problem is that I don't have a clean piston,something might be sticking somewhere? so putting oil in might free it, a call from a Tam mentioned the drill trick and I saw this on faq http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/faq2.html#spark and thought I should try to get this coil working before I fork out £70 for a replacement so first I am going to put it all back together, check and double check the gaps, fresh petrol and proper seagull oil mixed, and pull it until it hurts
failing all that I will try the drill. I left the electrics in the oven to see if that did any good, I know the Carb is now clean, I know the plug is fine.
I can report that as long as the Curry I make for Tea tomorrow is a hot one she shouldn't find out about her ovens other use

Keith.P wrote:Some do it that way, some don't, I have a good idea why it works with a drill, but I have never needed to do it that way.
plus I don't want to over tighten the flywheel or have a cordless with me every time I take a motor on the river, if I can not get a motor to start after two or three pulls, I know something's not right.
I suppose the question is, would you use a drill to start any other more modern outboard.

Hi Keith, I wasn't wanting to start the engine with a drill, I imagine if it was to start I would be in trouble with a spinning black and decker attached to the top nut , just as a way to improve the coil (plug out)

We had an electronic wizzkid study this for us several years ago, his conclusions were, spinning with a drill,

will not fix a faulty coil
will not fix a defective condenser
will not remagnetise flywheel magnets

the only fault it will possibly repair is dirty points, the arcing across the points when spinning with the drill might well clean them a bit.

But shouldn't you have cleaned & set them, before trying to start it?

I don't seem to be able to pull the cord fast enough to generate a good enough charge, spark plug in place, the flywheel stops almost as soon as the cord pulls off, spark plug out it spins for a while, hi Steve in my book that means you have good compression if you think there ismybe something causing resistance then why not try it power head only just thinking out loud. ...

Charles

re your comment about how spinning the flywheel with an electric drill won't help recharge/ "fix" the flywheel magnets, if it has been proven to not have an effect then should John be notified (if he hasn't been already) and have the part in the FAQ's on the website where it says it may remedy bad flywheel magnets... be taken down as it would seem to be misleading information?

Cheers
BP