phil wrote:
Free hand?? I usually have one hand on the tank and one hand pulling the rope!
Does SOS stock 'free hands' ?
Nice boat, looks like a handy set up you have with the trailer too. It looks to be a difficult enough position to be starting the outboard from too with the the transom bracket off centre. I can understand why you'd want your hand on the tank for steadying yourself and the outboard. Could you clamp or bolt a piece of plastic or metal over the intake on the carb that would slide across to act as a choke for you? It might make things a bit easier.
Mutineer wrote:cool. I'll try that. thanks!
Some photos;
Thanks for posting the pictures of the 102. That looks in quite good condition, I was expecting a lot worse from your previous description of it. A good buy I'd say, shame it's not the long shaft that you ideally need for your set up, but I'm sure you'll find a way to make it work for you.
THanks, I agree
It looks to be in pretty good shape . That's one of the reasons why I bought it despite the short shaft.
I might have a long drive shaft and rod kicking around, though I might've used it, I can't remember.
I think it'd been cleaned and hastily reasembled (loose fuel tap, lines, carb bottom, pretty well everything)also it was too loose on the bracket clamp(I like mine a little stiff so it stays where you leave it) the tiller handle and the clutch lever as stated previously
A few closeups for the voyeurs;
Attachments
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Oh another thing i noticed, though I've yet to pop the flywheel cover off is that when the flywheel kicks back when you stop it and or pull it and it doesn't start, there's a clickclack sort of noise from inside the flywheel that I haven't heard on others. It's pretty easy to start though, generally,
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from what i can see it looks like you've got good one.
nice chrome on the leg and exhaust.
only things i can see wrong according to the age of it(depends on how fussy you are with regards to authenticicty) are the water transfer pipe from the top of the block to exhaust outlet, should be copper or nickel,(not entirely sure when BS made the change to plastic pipes, some time in the late 60's i think)
and the flywheel nut is from a later wipac ignition.
everything else looks good. well done!
jon
"clickclack" noise could be from rust on the magnets touching the coil cheeks as you turn the flywheel.
once you get the flywheel off things will be pretty obvious. clean everything under there. they can get liberally covered in grease and goo and old 2 stroke mix that once semi dried can be difficult to remove.
easy enough to work on though. enjoy it.
Mine has a pretty heavy duty thick rubber hose, the end fittings look like Seagulls one's.
Hey!
Another question if I may, I'm new to this particular gull
It's normal for them to exhaust some out around where the water pipe leaves the exhaust pipe at the bottom of the leg? There's no holes at the back of the exhaust pipe like other seagulls I've seen
The click clack noise happens as the flywheel rebounds backwards after you stop the motor or pull start it unscuccessfully, so only when it spins back a bit, not forward. I will be popping the cover off though to have a look,Maybe I'll get lucky and have the newer ignition already.
Are the normal tanks for 102s the same size as the other regular Seagull tanks(they look about the same capacity, i'm just curious?
If attacked by a group of clowns
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there are no holes in the backof the tube on the 102s,this makes them quieter, I always found the 102s quieter and smoother than the others, I don't use them anymore as they are to heavy for my transom, I now use either a century or a 40+, if I had the right boat I would go back to a 102., from memory the fuel tank of a 102 got me about the same distance as the century
thats a good point BRUCE.
i think seagull manuals tell you to put a little grease on the cam follower for the points.
i've never understood why though as the felt pad just wipes it all off again?
could also be a slightly "dry" engine. i.e. not much oil in the bore yet!
judging by the condition of the chrome on the leg and exhaust i'd be surprised if this one was worn out?
Had it out today for a good 45 min of running
It did qute well.
I boiled the fuel tap briefly to swell the cork so it doesn't vibrate closed anymore.
I have it mounted straight up and down in relation to the water and it seems to want to make the boat squat a little. So even though it ends up the same depth(plus an inch or two fror greater weight) as the 40 plus it looks like it's sitting lower in the water and the mount ends up at least half in the water at hull speed.(a outrageous 4.5 - 5 knts)
It also seemed to go up and down a little in speed by itself(everything has been snugged up including the throttle lever) I was thinking it was as it went a little deeper in the water sometimes . I was experimenting with moving fore and aft to check it out but it didn't seem to make a difference.
Also I'm a bad seagull owner and I haven't popped the cover off yet
Still it ran quite well and was noticably quieter and faster than the 40 plus
If attacked by a group of clowns
Go for the juggler!
As far as jumping into gear, easy fix, your gear rod should be turned 180 degrees and refitted to the gear lever so that the bent end of the rod sits on a flat part of the exhaust tube clamp (if you look carefully, you will see a flat ridge on the clamp) that is why there is side play on the gear lever, to enable you to hook the top of the gear rod onto the exhaust clamp flat.
Hmm
That's very interesting
I'm going to have a look at that
For the time being I've tightened it up a fair bit and that dies the trick though it's a little stiff to engage
If attacked by a group of clowns
Go for the juggler!
