Fitted and new throttle cable, extended height of transom and went off for a trial run.
transom.jpg (55.94 KiB) Viewed 693 times
Engine ran really well, went from slipway at Wick in Christchurch and headed out the run at Mudeford. The sea was a little choppy but was a good trip, on way back managed to loose start cord as it was flung off into the sea and had to cut a piece of our mooring rope to get started...
Could anyone tell me the correct length cord should be as a temp fix until i can get a new one?
Found the transom extension suffered a crack at weakest point so back to drawing board on that one, will replace and reinforce.
My routing of the throttle cable does not seem right as cannot fold tiller arm downwards for storage - has to be vertical to engine (throttle lever is too far away on tiller) if it was closer when move throttle the cable slips out.
If it was my boat i would not of gone to that much trouble with the tramson. A hose clamp (Jubilee clip) around the driveshft tube would of done real well. But its your boat, so its up to you. The cable is way to short and how you have it is going to snap something.The cable needs to be like the pic ive posted. Mine is a 102, but you should have the idea of how the cable should be.The starter chord should be 24" in length. Get a length of rope--Cut a 4 to 5 inch length of the end of the broom or rake--Drill a hole threw the middle--Push the rope threw and finish with a knot or 2 on each end of the chord.
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Last edited by 1650bullet on Thu Aug 08, 2013 12:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1650bullet wrote:If it was my boat i would not of gone to that much trouble with the tramson. A hose clamp (Jubilee clip) around the driveshft ube would of done real well. But its your boat, so its up to you. The cable is way to short and how you have it is going to snap something.The cable needs to be like the pic ive posted. Mine is a 102, but you should have the idea of how the cable should be.The starter chord should be 24" in length. Get a length of rope--Cut a 4 to 5 inch length of the end of the broom or rake--Drill a hole threw the middle--Push the rope threw and finish with a knot or 2 on each end of the chord.
I now understand what you mean with hose clamp, didn't want to move transom mount down on engine as thought would be unable to turn motor. Will give that a go.
The cable running through that top hole, looks good, but its a bad design and will damage the cable very quickly, cable tie.
Point tiller arm down and adjust throttle lever location to suit cable length.
robhc1000 wrote:Throttle cable adjusted and sorted
I have unbolted transom bracket mount and it appears to move quite freely up and down
transom3.jpg
Split pins were rusted and fell to bits, will put clamp on above and see how that works.
The previous owner painted engine and it looks a mess, whats the best way to clean engine up and remove the paint please?
Rub a bit of grease around the friction areas of the clamp, and the transom clamp nuts. If the nuts on the clamp are ok, Dont worry to much about the split pins. Get a stainless hose clamp if you can. Its a heaps better way because you then have a million to one adjustment ratios.
So when in correct position the origional clamp is loose enough for engine to turn and hose clamp holds it in place?
Needed to remove a piece of transom anyway as it was too deep for seagull bracket to sit on so no major issues there, im enjoying the learning curve with all this
robhc1000 wrote:So when in correct position the origional clamp is loose enough for engine to turn and hose clamp holds it in place?
Needed to remove a piece of transom anyway as it was too deep for seagull bracket to sit on so no major issues there, im enjoying the learning curve with all this
Thats it" The hose clamp will hold it to whatever height you need,and the original clamp should be firm enough to turn. If the friction clamp is to loose it will do a hard turn if you let go of the tiller arm and could tip you out of the boat if someone is standing. So just enough tension so it cant do that. Adjust the height just enough so the clamp bolt that holds the top of the gearbox to the drive shaft tube is just under water.
One thing you can do to improve the moutning arrangement, and I encourage this big time, is to trace the transom mount (outboard side) onto that plank. once traced take a chisel and hammer and create a slight inlet. This will gaurentee that the mount wont kick off laterally with out needing to tourque the hell out of the bolts.
Strictly from a pride of ownership persepctive the corners of the mount demand a radius! trace a nice boaty shape on there rough it out and the round nicely with a rasp/sand paper. Paint?
One thing you can do to improve the moutning arrangement, and I encourage this big time, is to trace the transom mount (outboard side) onto that plank. once traced take a chisel and hammer and create a slight inlet. This will gaurentee that the mount wont kick off laterally with out needing to tourque the hell out of the bolts.
Strictly from a pride of ownership persepctive the corners of the mount demand a radius! trace a nice boaty shape on there rough it out and the round nicely with a rasp/sand paper. Paint?
Hope you catch lots of fish!
Very good point, i think thats what caused wood to crack on last outing, we plan to get out and fish Poole harbour on monday and would be nice to catch a fish for the dinner table
I will know for next time.