Saving Old Seagulls

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 7:10 pm**

phil wrote:Ok, it's simple to get the exhaust pipe off, assuming things ( either end of the driveshaft) are not badly rusted together. Just undo the 2 nuts on the drive tube/crankcase joint, and it should pull apart. The driveshaft will be in the drive tube, the water supply pipe and exhaust tube will be attached to the cylinder. Undo the clamp on the exhaust tube at the exhaust port. The exhaust tube is often a tight fit to the cylinder exhaust port, but now that the bottom end of it is free and the clamp is off the other end you can move the end that was attached to the lower unit to help loosen it from the cylinder, wiggle it back and forth and sideways to encourage it as you pull it off the exhaust port.
The water tube will still be attached to the cylinder, undo the brass nut and any wire holding it on.
Now you can examine the exhaust port area for any cylinder cracks, as it is an area that is somewhat prone to cylinder cracking.
The exhaust tube and water supply tube usually come off the lower unit quite easily. It's all very simple unless there is severe corrosion at either end of the drive shaft. That can make it difficult to disassemble.
I find a piece of stainless cable about 6" long and 3/16" to 1/4" diameter chucked in a drill makes a decent cleanup wire brush for the water galleries in the block. After chipping all the chucks out with another tool. It lasts longer if you unlay a strand and use it to seize the cable about 1/2" -3/4" from the business end.
Looks good by the way. You might try to pickup a crankcase somewhere. Too bad that's broken off. Someone in the U.K. Will offer you one hopefully.

Thanks very much for that - crank case will be sourced soon - I cannot undo the screw between the tubes at the top of the gb - the outer one is off but the middle one is a pig.

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 7:25 pm**

That's why John sells the toolkit with the obstruction spanner that's designed for that task.

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 7:26 pm**

Wow your quick. Well worth getting the exhaust tube and copper fitting off. Rust settles there and like mentioned above it will grow into a block cracking mass. At the very least you will find the water entry severley reduced in diameter. The interior of the copper water tube is also likely reduced in diameter bit and will benefit from a swab. If I have read the market right the amount of cracked century blocks out there should make any other parts very easy for you to come by so that block kept in top shape will serve you well for a long time.

Re the obstruction spanner if the tolerances are similiar to the 40 mdls you can use a regular spanner running paralell to the drive tube and turn it with an adjustable. better to have an obstruction spanner but not required.

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:07 pm**

Sometimes a combination spanner will let you get it started as well. Open end parallel to drivetube heavy screwdriver in the ring end to turn.

Likely would not hurt to give it a bit of heat with a propane blowtorch, and then hit it with your favorite penetrating oil while hot, that will often draw in the lubricant enough to help. Try several cycles.

Or if you are willing to risk damaging the nut, a small cold chisel or cape chisel and small hammer to the end of the nut just till it loosens enough to turn with a spanner, make sure you are moving it in the proper direction to loosen it. If you are very careful you can likely get it started without damaging it too much.

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:31 pm**

david doyle wrote: If I have read the market right the amount of cracked century blocks out there should make any other parts very easy for you to come by so that block kept in top shape will serve you well for a long time.

Yes you read that correctly.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seagull-botto ... 3f27a8901c

And that does not include the Southampton spares mountain.

Phone John he will sort you one out I am sure.

H-A

P.S. If you have trouble finding one P.M. me and I will dig you one out.

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:36 pm**

Thanks all. I am pretty used to stubborn stuff as i have been doing similar stuff on my vw for quite a while,but the one between the tubes on my gb is a countersunk slotted screw!

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:45 pm**

Just a note. The awkward screw is the reason i am asking if i can disconnect the drive tube from the crank.

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:51 pm**

poptop2 wrote:but the one between the tubes on my gearbox is a countersunk slotted screw!

They are not counted sunk, just a cheese head that get corroded, worst case you have to drill those out.

Good fitting screwdriver, give screwdriver some sharp taps with a hammer, bit of heat and WD40.

Good luck

H-A

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 10:07 pm**

Ok will do- Cheers again.
Malc

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 10:37 pm**

Hope your grand luck holds and the gear box jumps off easy. Your outboard is shaping up to be a real joy for years to come, cheering your success.

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 10:46 pm**

Oh, the light finally dawns gb = gearbox.

What H-A says.

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 10:53 pm**

phil wrote:Oh, the light finally dawns gb = gearbox.

Thought I would fill in the spaces for you guys

H-A

Posted: **Mon Jul 29, 2013 11:54 pm**

Sorry for the abreviations I kind of do it without thinking.
Gb gearbox xh exhaust hx heat exchangers wb wheel bearings and so on are all vw forum stuff. I will try to communicate properly on this veey helpful site. My apologies.

Posted: **Tue Jul 30, 2013 2:19 pm**

Hi all - i Managed to seperate it ( in a fashion ) started off drilling out the stubborn screw thought i had cleared the casing from the screw edge and gave it a knock with a bit of wood and my trusty wacking stick ( lump hammer)then it came away like this - so much for precision engineering

Drilled screw

My question today is - Does this cover plate come off and if so how?

Do i undo the remaining brass nut or is there another method?

On a plus note the feed pipe looks very clean with almost nil corrosion inside

Posted: **Tue Jul 30, 2013 2:49 pm**

It is not a cover plate, just part of the same casting.

That brass nut will come undone, it holds the water pipe on.

When you put it back, use a bit of thread lock.

On some engines they are wired in place, if it drops off you loose cooling.

H-A

Saving Old Seagulls

Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.

Re: Hi - My engine started.