In that case it is all looking ok ( i think? ) I have checked the casting and it looks alright and i cant see any cracks - the water pipe was very clear i pushed a welding rod down it from both ends and there it is very clean. i might have to do a bit of repainting now as i have knocked it about a bit while dismantling but that's fine i can cope with that.
I will put it back together soon - I will pop some pictures up and see if someone spots any issues before i do though
A few pictures of what i found when i took it apart.
I cleaned the water feed pipe but tbh it never needed much - i pushed a welding rod down it - i left some of the weld on the rod for girth then i pushed it through with ease.
Last few photos for a while - I picked up an idea or tip from this forum and decided to give it a go-
To clean the brass bits somenone suggested you drop them into vinegar with salt added and leave them overnight- i tried a quick dip ( half hour ) and rub down with wire wool soaked in the slt n vinegar - amazingly it works
While it was going off i sprayed the ali part of the transom bracket
So far i have been quite fortunate my Engine started, the head came off without drama, the waterways seem quite clear now and i have no cracks where people have said i probably would have , I do have a broken tiller casting on the bottom crank casting which i will have to replace and i suppose i am going to have to do a proper paint job if i can. so all in all it does seem like i bought a half decent motor?
The thing that really puzzles me is this 10/1 mix - my engine smoked quite a bit on 25/1 now i have to increase the oil mix by more than double- how does that affect the running, will i need a hot plug or will the NGK A6 be ok?
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Third photo from the top of this page, looks like a crack at 12 o'clock from exhaust port to outside of casting.
Also 6th photo down, from exhaust port to brass water inlet fitting.
I did study those photos, and it looks OK to me, but hard to tell from photos.
The mark in picture 3, I have seen similar before, it looks like a tool mark from when the exhaust stub was faced off.
That block will fail one day, as has been said before on the forum there is a pocket around the exhaust port that will not normally dry out and is perhaps full of casting sand.
You will get many years of use before it looks like this.
Sometimes you can see things in photos that are not obvious otherwise. The only way I was able to read the serial number on my 1914 Caille transom clamp was through multiple photos at different angles with varying amounts of illumination and highlighting with chalk rubbed on then rubbed off.
That said, I agree, I would run it the way it is. After all, even if they turn out to be small cracks, it's not likely to suffer catastrophic failure in the short term.
Hi all again -I have been out and had a good look at the exhaust port casting - I had a scratch with some wet and dry (scratched my head too ) i am not sure if i am honest.
Here are a few pics to help decide- i think the mark to the right of the water inlet is superficial atm but at 5 oclock to the water inlet there is most definitely a small crack, not very much atm about 5mm and 2mm over the edge but a definite start to a crack.
This one is hard to see but defo a crack - 27 minutes past the water inlet
Hardly visible at all in this one? -
Pretty happy with the rings and bores - no serious scoring - piston has no sideways movement and the rings look ok from the exhaust port.
And the last of the debris from the water channel clean - I hope
Yes i would use it. It doesnt look like a crack to me. Im looking at the pic threw a 30 inch visatron screen, What does anyone else think . With the cleaning of the bronze parts. Use salt and vinager with a lot of salt. Melt the salt down with a bit of boiled water to dilute it,then tip in the vinager, Leave it all soak overnight and then rinse of the parts using hot water from the tap. Once you have done that quickly use your wire brush and rub them down while everything is still warm. Watch how easy they clean up, Dont dip the wire brush. If anything wash it under the hot water tap. I have found it so much easyer to do it this way.
But that does look like a crack next to the exhaust port.
Crack.jpg
Just use it, there are loads of cracked blocks in use, it will go for years.
H-A
Yes it was my biggest concern first time i looked - having worked in a foundry as a diecaster and inspector I am going ( and remember i am quite new to seagulls so could be wrong here) to stick my neck out and say that one is most definitely a casting fault- i have had a good look at it and think that was there from day one - the surrounding area is fine the fault doesn't go through and down the sides and it does look very similar to castings i rejected frequently - I think that is most definitely a future crack though and I am beginning to think you are right about the rest of it being pretty usable.
I am rubbing it all down again for a respray and getting ready to put it all back together.
. With the cleaning of the bronze parts. Use salt and vinager with a lot of salt. Melt the salt down with a bit of boiled water to dilute it,then tip in the vinager, Leave it all soak overnight and then rinse of the parts using hot water from the tap. Once you have done that quickly use your wire brush and rub them down while everything is still warm. Watch how easy they clean up, Dont dip the wire brush. If anything wash it under the hot water tap. I have found it so much easyer to do it this way.