Timing help

[Keith.P]

I need some way of finding when the points open on a magneto type ignition, It has one wire output for the kill switch and as that wire goes to the points I could use it to get a reading from to tell me when the points open.
I need to turn it over by hand and all I seem to get is a load of strange readings.
I do have a modern multimeter (AVO), Just don't know the settings I need to use.
I know a little AC/DC(not what you're thinking) and micro farad's and that's it.

[Daryl]

Hi Keith, Using a conventional Ohm scale on a Multi meter even with an analogue meter using X1 scale there is very little movement in the needle betwean open/closed. It would work easier if the coil windings are disconected from the points. If you have a Low ohms meter it can be done with the coil conected as shown in the pictures, The reason the coil ohm reading is 8 ohm which is too high, is this meter uses an ac signal imposed across the resistance, in this case is coil windings which give an in acurate reading to the meter, but is easy to pick. I actualy use a Xenon timing light to check the timing with the engine running.

[Keith.P]

The problem is, I would have to remove the mag, pull it apart refit and setup the timing and then remove, rebuild, and replace, hoping that its right.
I have tried the static timing with a strobe light as my one uses a 12v supply to run, but the timing setup is done at full advance, (full throttle)and its the only way to set it up.
I have found in the manual, that I can use a ohmmeter set to rX1,000, I may try this first, but had no luck last time I tried.
Not that it helps that the data in the manual that I paid good money for is totally wrong, luckily I have some of the original data.

[Collector Inspector]

You are lucky in having an external ground.

OK, remove the wire to the coil from the points. Remove the wire to the condenser as well. Leave your handy ground wire external connected to points

Flywheel back on (Point gap set).

Put meter on Buzz sound for dead short and time your baseplate with your ear and piston travel BTDC.

Mark the baseplate to whatever on the engine and lock down.

Take the flywheel off again, resolder everything, away you go Aye?

B

[Keith.P]

Thanks for your reply CI, But even coming from Hertfordshire I'm not that far down the evolutionary ladder to work that out.
I would Prefer to set it up without stripping the ignition down again and would also have to remove it again.
Its not that I can replace any parts that get damaged that easily as they are not so easy to come by over here, I have already serviced and reset the points and have a good spark, I just need to set the timing in situ, as it should be.

But thanks for the reply anyway.

Ignition system

[Collector Inspector]

OK, Up to your Old Dear........

B

[Keith.P]

Thanks, but all done.
You have to use a gauge down the plug hole, as max advance is set at .235" BTDC.
Also its a pull-start only motor and you cannot see the flywheel with the recoil start on.
Hard to do on your own, I did ask the wife to pull it, but no joy

[Collector Inspector]

Well, "Pull?

I just got back from the Coast..............rather rough weather.

I did such ................

AYE!

B