11ft clinker build dingy

[Double Dutch]

Last year I found this 11ft clinker build dingy at Marktplaats , the Dutch version of EBay.
She is in poor condition, but to nice to scrap her.
I am not sure about her make or age.
The transom is rotten away and half the oak ribs are broken.
Much work has to be done as scraping of the old varnish and give her a good coat of Owatrol D1 and D2.
I am not sure the boat is watertight.
As the boat will be the most of the time out of the water, she might dry out.
Has anybody experience with sealant for the hull planks?
I hear different stories about epoxy, most of them tells that this will be the end of your boat.
Please leave comments if you have any hints or tips about restoring this little boat.

[Keith.P]

The old clinker built boat will leak like a sieve once it had dried out.
I would repair the transom and then got and sink it somewhere.
I wouldn't bother doing anything the the woodwork until the wood has had a good long soak.

[Charles uk]

Nice looking hull, just looks different to an English one.

How rotten is the transom? a repair is often a lot easier than replacing the whole stern of the boat.

There must be old time wooden boat repairers in Rotterdam, go and ask them for advice, what sort of wood is it built of?

Old fishermen would just moor the boat in salt water, let it fill with water, leave it for 2 weeks, then bail it out & use it.

[blue]

hi dd--as other posters say try soaking first----if that doesn t work you will have to fibreglass----regarding ribs---take out one rotten rib at a time and replace like this------get a metal tube with one end sealed ---fill with water and boil----put new rib in and boil for 10 minutes-----now you must work quickly---take softened rib out and put in place of old rib ----use the old holes in planking and drill pilot holes in new rib and rivet with copper rivets immediately---this is a 2 man job-----to copper rivet you need a rove punch (check internet for pictures)-an engineers hammer with a round head at one end and something to cut the copper nails to size--------------test try a couple before you start as you must complete each rib before it cools down and hardens ---------the method is-----drill pilot with a smaller diameter than copper nail----bang nail in and push rove down nail with punch----snip off nail about 5mm?? above rove----hit this 5mm?? with round headed hanmmer to spread and hold rove in------one last tip-------some countries oak is better than others for steamed ribs----if i remember rightly english oak is not good----good luck blue

[Double Dutch]

Thanks for your reply Charles and Keith,
The transom is very rotten.
I am afraid I have to replace it.
I bought the book "Restore your wooden boat" by Stan Grayson.
I found some usefull tips in there.
I have no idea what the boat is build of.
Woodwork is not my proffesion, I am more in metal working.
Does anyone has experience in using Sikaflex for sealing the hull planks?
Boiling the ribs in a steal tube sound good.
I was thinking of making a steam box for it, but I think boiling the ribs is easier.

WKR,
Dammis

[Charles uk]

Find yourself a book on using epoxy resin to repair wood.
Removing & replacing a transom on a timber boat is a very complicated job, get a price from a wooden boat repairer, the amount they want to repair it with show how much work this will be.
Can you post pictures to show how bad the rot is?

[woodbutchergraham]

Well Mr DD looks like this could be a fine craft. Take care as you remove the dammaged sections try to take patterns and lots and lots of photos for refrance as you go.
I must agree with Charles for a craft of this type if you are not to proficant with wood working tools Epoxy resin is the way to go.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/boat-building/

This link takes you to some of the best stuff in the world. I have built boats from most materials but still think this is the best adhesive, it will stick almost anything to anything and fill large gaps using the wood flour technique. I hope this helps, if there is anything you need to know dont be afraid to ask . Last of all post lots of picures i was most inspired by your SD with a little bit of work your boat could be as good.
Keep up the good work

All the best Graham

[Oyster 49]

Yes, an excellent boat, I would like to get a similar one at some point, to cruise the local waterways. Hope it goes well DD, can we have lots of progress reports and pictures please?

Having a wood butcher on the forum is very usefull, along with a talented engineer, historians, motivational experts, race tune experts, people with loads of spares etc.

The 102 looks rather good also

[skyetoyman]

I am sure it will do up fine -- it is amazing what sandpaper and varnish can do.
Translation needed :-
Talented engineers --- cocky sods
historians ---- old sods
Motivational experts --- wan*ers
race tune experts --- fast wan*ers
people with lots of spares --- lucky sods

[Oyster 49]

Should the rest of the woodwork be held fast in a jig or similar before removing the rotten transom pieces, to stop the planks springing out?

[woodbutchergraham]

Personally I would use a ratchet strap around the stern end to stop any springing. By the look of the age of the mahogany planks on an oak frame there would be little movement or springing. If the side planks do need to be replaced Steaming is a great way but the use of boiling water can give slow progress. I prefer to use two wallpaper steam strippers to generate a steam tunnel with 12mm boards can be as pliable as plastic within 15-20 mins

Have a look at these
http://www.stanleysmallcraft.co.uk/page22.php

Look good without too much hassle

[Double Dutch]

Some detail pictures of the stern and other parts.
Hints and tips are very welcome.
I think it's a good idea to remove the rotten part of the stern and insert a new piece of wood.
I have no idea what kind of wood is used.
Any idea to glue a piece of plywood over the original stern after repair the old stern?

[rivers]

Old fishermen would just moor the boat in salt water, let it fill with water, leave it for 2 weeks, then bail it out & use it.

Gotta agree with Charles. That type of construction was meant to be wet. Go sink it in salt water for awhile till it swells up. If ya wanna fiberglass or epoxy smear a boat find a plywood boat. Clinkers if built right and used in salt water don't need plastic coatings.Do need maintenance but not space age waterproofing. Very cool boat. Do what's needed to keep it alive(maintained) and your grandkids will be using it someday.
Joe

[phil]

The transom, both garboards, and some frames are in need of replacement. Remove the pieces needing replacement as gently as possible so that you may use them as patterns for new pieces. Try to find the same variety of wood as the originals used when replacing them. Just sinking it will not help, if the wood is rotten enough to be soft, which it does appear to be in some places.

Here is a place to ask real experts on wooden boat repair, you will have to decide by their replies which are the experts.
http://forum.woodenboat.com/forumdispla ... ing-Repair

[Double Dutch]

Thanks gentlemen for your comments.
Last month, I payed a visit to the Dutch boatbuilding school.
I am been told, it would be easier to build a new boat.
Th teacher offer me a brand new boat build by his students.
She is the Sunshine designed by Walter J Simmons, based on a 1915 yachtstender.
The boat was offered to me at costs price.
Just one night sleep and I was the owner.
I offered my old boat at Marktplaats and is sold by now by option.

Fot the Sunshine, see my new topic.