Beginners design and build

[outboard]

Starting to get a bit of sense from these software programs, however I'm still not 100% with them.
I was reading through the site you recommended Manifold, Hannu, it's good but correct me if I'm wrong, he has a neat 10.5ft dinghy with plans, but I don't seem to see all the sizes for the plans. His explanations of stuff is good.

Say I design a boat something like the one HA has on his thread, can I add a piece of plywood at the bow, coming back to the stern about 1ft, to act like a little bosun's locker for storing. Do you get what I'm thinking, rather than having an open bow. Just asking to see if adding things like this causes problems.

Gerard

[Charles uk]

It's a bit like a house, a bow locker is just furniture, it will add a little strength, make it as light as possible, but also contribute to the structure.

[outboard]

Manifold, if you find some spare time, could you post the sizes you might put into the Carene program if you were designing a 3.5mtr skiff like HAs for example, just to let me see what I should be looking at, especially when I take it into freeship.

Much obliged.
Gerard

[outboard]

Superb, thanks Manifold. My last test piece last night on Carene was almost what you gave me here, I emphasise nearly, well I had the length the same. Seriously, it was quite near. I seemed to be flatter from mid to bow and rising aft. Thanks for this. My engines are standard shafts, on 40+, I think it's around 16", not certain on that, will face the rain later and go out to the garage and check.

I must say it's simple to you guys with experience but us novices feel inadequate when we hear you guys rattle off this stuff. I appreciate all this help from you all.

Gerard

[Hugz]

Don't worry it is way over my head!! That's why I like old things... they make sense

[outboard]

Gooday Hugz, I thought that way too but I've had a thing for quite a while about boats then I bought plans from Glen-L but they are for someone with a bit of experience. The idea of designing and building your own wee boat sounds good to me. My problem is I don't know much about what the guys talk about but it's not hard finding out on the internet, and the guys are great at explaining. I'm hoping to be in my own wee vessel with my trusty seagull in the near future, who knows I might even get down to the gathering next year with them, it looked good this year. I want to see Charles' yellow peril up close, hopefully with it's prop on.

Gerard

[Hugz]

For the more committed:

http://www.woodenboatcentre.com/boat_school.htm

Nice slide show.

[outboard]

Understood! The Morgan looked good until he did the taping on the outside. Am I right in thinking that once the chines have been filled and rounded, the outside should be covered in cloth and resin? Or is it merely painted with resin only then finished with paint? HAs boat looks nice.
If I don't have any closed lockers or seats, will this eliminate the need for plastic bottles?

Gerard

[Horsley-Anarak]

I would always tape the joints inside and out.

If you feather out the tape edge with a sander you cant see it.

Water tight compartments I agree do add lots of weight, but If you want a safe unsinkable boat and not a racing machine then they make sense.

They also make good seats.

The bottom chine I think need additional protection, either fibre glass tissue or thin cloth. I have just bought some 80g/sqM woven glass. It is very thin like muslin.
I am looking forward to using it. The new boats name will be "Qapla"

H-A

[Horsley-Anarak]

when the water tight compartments fill with water/foam filling gets sodden the boat gets heavy...otherwise good for structure etc

I do not have anything in my water tight compartments to get sodden, If I did put anything in the compartments it would be closed cell foam.

If the front compartment gets punctured in use I would hope that the rear one would prevent total loss.

I think the real point of a bit of buoyancy on small boats, is if they happen to be swamped by another boat at least they will not sink.

H-A

P.S. Would you not be better using a non organic filler rather than flour, I use coloidal silica.

[Keith.P]

An interesting thread.
So could anyone shed some light on boats that are capable of taking a bigger outboard, rather than having to sit with a six foot tiller extension?
I have outboards from 2hp to 9.9hp, I do have a small tender that I used at the last Seagull outing, which is ok for outboards up to about 4hp, but no bigger.
The thing is, inflatable’s will take a heavy outboard, had inflatable’s in the past but I’ve never been keen on them. However, any boat big enough to take a heavier outboard seems to come with a wheelhouse and remote setup.
So is there not a design of boat that will take a heavy old outboard and still be able to sit with outboard tiller in one hand.


I did pick up a book on building a boat, I think but I think is a little dated(1927), some nice plan’s and pics, interesting and a bit overly technical as it covers all aspects of boatbuilding and the fastest boat at the time was Miss America II, 80.56mph

[rosbullterier]

It would depend on the length of the boat and the counteracting weight at, or towards the front end.
You just have to balance out gravity.
Unless you want the boat to lift its bow and plane, in which case the hull would be shaped with a very low deadrise aft with some V at the front to soften impact.
That's if the boat is a monohull. The setup then would be a light as possible with the outboard set even further back to catch clean water.

Why do you want to limit your horizon with a boring monohull?

[Spadge]

Hey Manifold Still stealing images and criticising other peopls work, we still haven't seen anthing you have built yet

[Horsley-Anarak]

Just had a look what "Spadge" means.

It would appear that it comes from the Kilt hire industry.

H-A

[outboard]

More good info lads, thanks.
Has this message from Spadge got anything to do with the thread, this is where threads always die a death when people start sending personal messages, hopefully not this one?

Now we're getting into the technical side of boyancy and the likes would anyone (Manifold, HA, Charles etc) like to explain how they'd set out the sheets of plywood and transfer the data from the freeship drawings so that it can be cut out.

Just found a set of plans I got a few years back when I first took an interest in building a boat. Maybe some of you would have seen the program "New Yankee Workshop", a guy does loads of crafts with wood. He built a sailboat called a "Clancy", I'm now wondering if this could be built to take a seagull instead of a sailing dinghy, i.e. missing out the daggerboard slot and the mast fittings. I'll try and scan some info and let you guys see, there's frame sizes and the likes, quite infomative, but maybe the design of the hull won't suit. If this is a goer, I might keep this for project number two. I still like HAs, and now Manifold has provided a similar design using freeship.

Gerard
ps don't get the kilt hire thing!