Saving Old Seagulls

Regret I don't know the model numbers for SeaBees - there was an 80cc Seabee 3. The original manufacturer was Austin Burrell Ltd. in Leicester. I did once try to find out about Auto Products - think their address was Bayton Road, Exhall, Coventry - but drew a blank. There is/was a company in Coventr...

Small model SeaBee - they made several models up to 5HP. Think -but not certain - some used J.A.P engines.

Believe these were also made by Auto Products (see other email).

I don't think any records exist which might allow dating of Mallards - engines up to 1957 had little cylindrical tanks, and post-57 engines went to a sem-wrap-round shape of tank. Most if not all of the small British outboards were eventually manufactured under the Auto Products banner in Coventry a...

I had a 170 and a spare transom bracket and gearbox, all of which were painted blue per the first of the pictures, which I believe to be 'Oxford' blue. I have recollections of an orange prop on one of my FNR gearboxes, which I assumed was just someones' handiwork. Going further back, I remember comi...

Not so many I don't think - outboards were just part of the Anzani portfolio - ones I can recall are the Minor 3/4 HP, Pilot 2-3 HP, Super Sport 8 and 13 HP I believe ( two versions around 1950/1), Super Single 5HP, Unitwin 10 and 15 HP, and Magnatwin 18 HP. Each type was very different to the next ...

Hi Andrew - Charles' fix woud be the quickest and cheapest, but I have a new-old-stock 170 cable and a used one with a cracked in the outer casing - presumably where it passes through the base plate. £15.00 for the new cable, and you are welcome to the second one FOC. I would only know shipping cost...

Forest creature - this what I meant - unless it tells you, I have to imagine that you drill the dimple slightly deeper with the aforesaid drill, and then somehow locate the washer within the dimple (or stick it there with some grease) I have no idea what diameter a 3BA washer is - I assume it is the...

HI Nudge - sorry I couldn't find it (passed a lot of my Seagull paperwork on), but Andrew has covered it as I remember it.

You might want to just live with the crankcase weep unless it gets too bad - there is no gasket, so the cure is to split the crankcases - i.e. a total strip, where the recommended procedure is to manually lap the crankcase halves on a flat surface, e.g. a piece of plate glass - using an abrasive com...

Hi Claude - if your boat has a displacement hull (a 'rounded' shape in the water) it will only go at its natural hull speed, which might only be half-throttle on your Seagull - with it 'flat-out', this will only get you more noise and fuel consumption, with no speed advantage. The other type of hull...

That's a good tip! When testing an 'unknown' motor on a river, go upstream! So if the motor conks, there is good chance you will eventually arrive near your point of departure (and always carry oars) without excessive output of energy. I used to roll up a my local boatyard, who would firstly show an...

There should be a small spring underneath the head of the needle to stop it unscrewing, whilst allowing it to centralise in the jet tube - someone off the Forum or British Seagull will be able to send you one. Regret I don't have any Villiers carbs. Correct basic setting is to have the top of the ne...

Thanks Hugo - another of lifes' mysteries sorted.

Rick

Hi 101 - just sent you a pm, but it may lurk in the outbox for a while - basically just telling you I have one - very good cond. If interested I'll dig it out and give you a better opinion as to its state, but I know there are no bruises or butchery.

Rick

Hi 101 - just sen yo a pm, but it may lurk in to outbox for a while - basically just telling you I have one - very good cond. If interested I'll dig it out and give you a better opinion as to its state, but I know there are no bruises or butchery.

Rick