Saving Old Seagulls

That it is unlikely that a fifties SJM would have had a cotton reel thrust block. I was at first encouraged that this item had one, till I looked a bit closer. The thing is, I am, just for fun, assembling a SJP that is as close to original (whatever that is) as possible (and very shiny, obviously). ...

To be fair, It is difficult to mis-read... s-l1600 (4).jpg What I reckon since posting is that this is a bitsa made from a 70s featherweight but using the early cases (look at the contrast between the cases and the top of the driveshaft tube) - and an old transom clamp, perhaps originally belonging ...

The more I look at this the more it seems a bitsa. The engine code makes it 55-56...so the tank, fuel cap, throttle lever, ignition, all wrong - unless the SOS identifier is way off. But it has a 'bobbin' instead of a thrust block. Can this plausibly be an original part?

Your link to westway lubricants is exactly the same stuff i use in all my seagulls. I've been using this for a couple of years now. Good stuff it is too. It readily emulsifies with water as per seagulls specifications etc. and to date from using this oil i have had no problems. No rumbly bushes or ...

I have bought some but confess I have not used it yet. Give me your address and I will send you a free sample so you can evaluate it. You have my email address.

Yep, that would have to be re-positioned or replaced, which could prove difficult and /or disastrous! But I saved that part too, and it was removed easily enough, as I recall, although I did not test it for wear.

Anybody got a 102 gearbox they can bear to part with?

Good point, I confess I hadn't noticed that detail. However, the only difference the drawing reveals is the profile of the casting at the output end; the clutch drive has an additional bevel and a bush that fits into it. Interestingly, I saved these parts from a scrap item that were made from brass ...

It seems to me that the differences between a fixed and a clutch drive 102 gearbox is fundamentally a longer propshaft and a few extra parts (spring, large brass washer, clutch fork etc) but the casting is the same, thus a fixed drive could be converted to a clutched version.

True or false?

I'd recommend TCW3 because its biodegradable. The brand is irrelevant unless you intend to go racing, and only then if you supe up your engine, and even then any synthetic blend will do. Here's a cut-out-and-keep handy-dandy table for the use of...

I have heard it said that a Seagull will be ok with multigrade in a pinch. Haven't tried it myself. Be nice to the environment and buy TCW3 which is biodegradable.

Oyster, yup, making one had sprung to mind. But I didn't consider George...doh. Of course. And I've just noted he sells a sheet of actual gasket paper for little, if not the actual purpose-made thing. Although some thin brass...maybe a re-shaped lid from the same assembly...then sealed with goo... A...

Yep. Good pic. What's your solution?

Ok thanks.

The Mk1 points box is seated on some kind of fibre pad which presumably is there primarily to protect the condenser from moisture. All the examples I have found are perished. The part is unavailable. Anybody have any suggestions what to make a new one from?

Thanks.