Saving Old Seagulls

If someone wishes to polish a motor to death, then that's their prerogative to do so, will it make it be worth more, go faster, as you say Seagulls are of low value and the basic fact is no matter what you do to a turd - polish it, paint it, give it bling - it's still a turd, so just use it.

Charles, when you came around that time to debunk the idea of my FVP having a 45 degree of timing, didn't you say something about another was of setting up the TDC of the motor?

Over the years I have seen and heard of marinas being cleaned out over a weekend, so it happens far more often then people think and most seagulls are just kept in a shed at the bottom of the garden, but some of us have the sense to keep a record of serial numbers. As far as bent Aussie's, I've neve...

I think it is also that an FV/P with the little tank look better than a standard 40 motor and an LS is more like a standard 40 then a FV/P, its not that they are all that uncommon really. Like the wartime motor its very easily to distinguished from a later 102 motor, when a common 40 and an LS is no...

It maybe that putting it right is not so easy now, when parts are harder to find. To my eye, it has, as you say Jeremy, the wrong tiller, throttle lever and complete transom, plus the prop, as it should be a four blade not a weed free prop. How easy is it to find the right parts to put it right, for...

I doubt very much if a Seagull is at the top of an outboard thief's hit parade, as it's worth more as parts! Maybe not the right attitude, would you think the same if one of your motors went walkies, or is it just a seagull. As seen on Ebay, Stolen: British Seagull 102, Brighton, good chrome on exh...

I can honestly say, I have never had to set the timing on a seagull, even a rebuild, the previous mark left by the stator screw was always good enough. With my FVP having a setting of 45 degrees BTDC, a degree or two isn't going to make much if any noticeable difference. What is the timing setting a...

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You are definitely in the right place, we do seem to have some elderly Aussie around some where.

Looking at a 30's spark plug books, the inner core was steel, with an outer copper sleeve drawn over the electrode core and held in close contact, thus increasing its heat conductivity, so nothing to do with the spark, but for removing heat in the spark plugs core. As a side note, suppressed plugs a...

The rod should be able to be held above the clamp when out of gear, that's why the lever is sprung. So if it don't jump into gear when you are not expecting it to, like when you are staring the motor, its normally going to be at a high rpm, this would damage the gearbox, the clamp has a ground spot ...

I seem to get told off when I comment about this type of motor. No it's not the type of motor for me. Now I will point out why, this is a fully restored motor. The tell-tail looks drilled out and has some type of washer attached. The clutch rod will not work properly as its set up wrong. If it was e...

I have come across 14mm pink Lodge spark plugs with carbon inside them under the top thread, I have had the thread still attached to the plug cap on a number of motors, any corrosion around that thread, can point to a future, as any corrosion would force them to separate the thread from the core. So...

Has anyone found the finish on the brass std later brackets to be appalling?

It's no better or worse than the standard aluminium ones.

One on youtube with the mount and tilt bar in brass, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlwIt77qTEg