Saving Old Seagulls

Sorry I've not explained well, I got the two screws out ok but the leg is wobbly but won't come off, should I have disconnected anything else. Don't want to damage anything, hence the questions. Sorry to be a nurd.

I'm stripping what I think is a forty+. I have stripped the gear box off and it seems seized, should the rod and the prop etc turn freely when they're off the engine? I then tried to dismantle the leg from the body, the two screws came out ok but the leg seems stuck, should this come off after ...

would love to give her the fuel, any ideas on how to get this damn screw out. I'm now thinking about drilling it out. The manual says to have the screw either level or a full turn above the top, but this thing is right down inside the throttle piston.

I can't wait to hear the sound. I have had one of my engines running and it sounded not quite right, now I realise the previous owner had the taper needle screw far too far in, now I'm having big trouble getting the damn screw out, the heads stripping. However I will hear that noise again.

Hi Folks

I'm looking for a screw that adjusts the taper needle in my carb. The previous owner has screwed the screw right down on the needle and it's impossible to get the screw out without stipping the head. Has anyone got an old carb where I could get a screw from? I will pay.

Cheers
Gerard ...

What's 2 or 3 inches between friends???
Thanks Billyboy, the clip makes me envious sitting here, however hopefully it won't be long till we're all back in the water. The engine sounded nice.

Gerard

Thanks folks. I might be a bit exaggerated by 1/4 inch, but yes there is some movement.

Can anyone tell me, should I have a bit of loose play on my prop. I can move the prop about 1/4 inch or so. Is this ok, or should the prop be fixed tight once the spring and split pin are fitted?

Gerard

Look at the subject "Safe way to cut tanks", this is a topic about taking the ends off the tank and the guys with experience have explained it fully.

Thanks for your knowledge on this subject, in fact it's Forty + tanks I have and I believe they come off quite easily, as I seen in one of the videos posted here. I'll need to get hold of a large propane torch as my smaller torch won't be of much good. I know what you mean about the brazing, however ...

Thought hard solder because it was a fuel tank, didn't know if soft solder would be ok against the fuel, no ther reason. I'm not familiar with using solder in fuel tanks, only lead and copper pipes and flashings.

http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu297/spiderg1/PICT0480.jpg
http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu297/spiderg1/PICT0476.jpg
http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu297/spiderg1/PICT0472.jpg
http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu297/spiderg1/PICT0473.jpg

Can anyone identify this, this filter ...

How do I post pictures?

Thanks, looks pretty straight forward.
Can I use a stick of hard solder to put the ends back on. I'm a plumber to trade and am used to wiping joints.

Gerard

Hi Guys

I see this has been a subject of interest before. What is the safe way to cut the ends off a fuel tank. I have a very badly dented tank and it needs severe measures to resurrect it. Will I be ok to use a stick of hard solder when replacing the ends?

Thanks