Saving Old Seagulls

8FA1609A-78BD-4659-898B-6C86A66A6115.jpeg I’m aware that this question has been answered before but can’t find the reference. I have also rebuilt two 40+ engines before but can’t remember what I did. I have stripped down a Silver Century, cleaned it off and ordered gaskets etc from John. Last time ...

Got it all apart now. The centre pump bolt took a while! I kept repeatedly heating it using a camping gas stove and quenching it with water and penetrating oil. I purchased a Silverline impact driver (£7.50) and kept tapping that. Eventually after a couple of hours heating cooling and tapping I used...

Cheers Tambikeboy I’ll try that on the key. Before I go to the garage i’ve found a gas camping stove to heat the pump bolts but they’re the old slotted ones ones so I’ll have to be careful. I once had a key fall out. The engine gave a massive backfire and I had to reseal the crank. Typical that I ca...

Thank you both. It came off undamaged this afternoon with heat from a heat gun and WD40. I’ve just got to split the pump housing now and may take it to my local garage as I don’t have an impact driver after soaking it with plus gas. The woodruff key is also jammed in.

Thanks Charles it’s aluminium so I’ll give hot air a try with the rubber hammer that I have.I actually no longer have a blowlamp and don’t fancy the B&Q queue! This is the 3rd seagull I’ve stripped without a blowtorch and something catches me out every time mind you i’m running out of plus gas t...

Thanks for that. Do you think a hot air gun will be strong enough or will I need a blowtorch?

I’m stripping my engine down to clean the waterways and block. I’ve got the head off but can’t separate the block and tube. I’ve removed the clamp and see there is a small dimple in the tube but the tube is rock solid attached to the block. I’ve tried wiggling it to no avail and will be be really gr...

The crankcase is now lined up nicely after I fastened the cylinder to it during assembly as suggested. One more query. The pin that holds the collar inside the propellor isn’t a roll pin but just a tight fitting rod made from brass. Should I get a roll pin or will this be ok?

I did some trials years ago on my Wayfarer dinghy with a gps. I actually got the 5 blade century prop machined to fit the 40+ clutch!!! But I always reckon the hydrofan direct drive is slightly faster. Exerpt from my post on Wayfarer forum "For anybody who happens to be interested I did trial o...

That sounds like a good plan! I’m nervous since I dropped a previous engine after cleaning the waterways and rebuilding and it blew bubbles from the crankcase so I had to strip it again and rebuild for a second time! It also sheared a tank bolt! Not that I’m planning to let this one fall over. I thi...

Hi Charles I get it now. Many thanks that makes sense. I may leave the piston on as the head is not back on yet. I have a spare decent crankcase with the locating tubes but the magneto baseplate screw is absolutely tight and I think it will need a load of heat to get it out so will stick with my exi...

So Charles are you suggesting I assemble the crankcase and cylinder base at the same time to ensure that the crankcase mating surfaces are flat?
It’s a lot easier with the locating tubes!

Thank you for that. The flatness is not brilliant so I have taken it apart to redo. Do you think it will be a good idea to fit the block at the same time so that the joint will be pulled flat? I’m using high temp rtv silicone in all the joints ( as well as gaskets in the block). I’ve taken the block...

I’ve just reassembled a 40+ (FP) model. On other engines there have been 2 short tubes to help with alignment of the crankcase halves when fitting the bolts. There were none on this. Is this normal?

I had the same problem with the woodruff key coming out. The cooling system was blocked, took head and block off and cleaned it all. Reassembled and tried to start it. Two pulls on cord resulted in two massive backfires. Checked timing with screwdriver in plug hole and it was massively out. Took fly...