Horsley-Anarak is right

[rosbullterier]

What a splendid name for a Seagull collector . . .

Anyhow this AM I followed his instructions exactly and now have two semi dismantled 102 tanks for repair.

I've been worrying about and assembling the equipment suggested for the 'blow off the ends with compressed air' route for some time!

[Horsley-Anarak]

Glad you had success.

Have put mine back together now (dent free), I used soft solder so that future generations will have less trouble. Did think I should have scratched a date and initials inside as clock repairers do.

With soft soldering make sure that you have the parts to be joined as clean as you can get them. Use plumber’s flux and lead-free solder, also don't overheat the joint. You only need a small torch, I use a Rothenburger Mapp gas plumbers torch. You can work your way round the end of the tank, but make sure that you heat the tank and then apply the solder to the hot brass, this way you won’t make as much mess.

If I was mending a round tank I would turn up a wooden former to help get the ends back into shape.

The hammer that I used for the panel beating was a tiny ballpein hammer, You need to make sure that you don’t stretch the brass too much.

Thanks

H-A

Glad you like my name (the joke is in the misspelling of Anorak, You would be surprised at the number of people who tell me I have spelt it wrong)

[niander]

anyone though of doing this for some cash...how much per tank?

[Vic]

Why Lead free solder? It seems to be something aimed at the electronics industry following a EU ban on certain toxic materials, including lead and cadmium, from electronic equipment.

I would have suggested "tinman's" solder perhaps rather than plumber's solder, both tin/lead solders, because it has a more definite solidifying temperature than plumber's solder which has broad solidifying temperature band making it suitable for joint wiping.

[Horsley-Anarak]

I use Lead-free because that is all I buy now.

Most plumbers in the UK (who still use copper) use Lead-free solder, water bylaws say you must for potable water supply.

It is readily available and it has a slightly higher melting point than lead solder. (You will be less likely to over heat your joint.)

Also the easiest way to clean up your solder joint is by sanding. Lead dust is not nice stuff.

I use lead-free every day in my work, soldering similar tight joints to the joints in tanks. It works with almost no failures. (Less than 1%).

Why would you want to wipe the joint? All you are doing is filling a very tight joint of a few thou with low melting point solder. If you are unable to beat the brass into shape well enough and you are expecting wide joints then I should imagine you could fill the gaps with Tinmans solder, I have not had this problem.

Thanks

H-A

[Vic]

Why would you want to wipe the joint

I would not want to wipe the joint. I was distinguishing between the properties of tinmans solder which has a composition equivalent to the eutectic, namely 62% tin 38% lead, and therefore solidifies quickly at 183C and plumbers solder which is 33% tin,67% lead and solidifies gradually as it cools from 260C to 183C thus passing through a pasty stage which enabled joints in pipes to be wiped in the days of lead pipes.

I quess these days plumbers are not likely to be able to wipe a joint, probably not even know what the term means!

However there appears to be no highly technical reason for using a lead free solder. Done properly there should be no need to sand off any excess and no one will be drinking from their Seagull tank I trust.

[Horsley-Anarak]

There is no technical reason for using lead-free solder, other than that it is easy to use, easy to get hold of and works well. If you were to ask your local plumber he would probably give you enough solder and flux to mend your tank. You never know he might even offer to solder it up for you.

The melting range of the solder that I use is 227 to 228 C, which works very well with most readily available small plumbers soldering torches.

I am not trying to reinvent the wheel here, just letting people know how I have had success mending brass tanks. The type of solder is unimportant.

You could always use silver solder if you want.

Thanks

H-A

[cahillp3]

Hey guy,
Any tips on how to solder the ends back on?

[Horsley-Anarak]

You need to get the parts as clean as possible before soldering.

The gap between the pieces needs to be as tight as you can get it.

Use plumbers flux and leadfree solder (I find this easier than leaded).

Do not over heat the joint , when you get it to the correct temp you will find that the solder will be drawn into the joint. When it starts to run you should be able to follow it round the whole end.

If you are using soft solder the clean up of any excess is very easy.

When you have finished soldering, put the cap on tight with the breather shut. Block off the outlet with a bit of dowel. Then put the tank in the washing up bowl full of hot water. Any leaks will show up as a small stream of bubbles.

Good luck

H-A

P.S. When it is done it should look like this

[cahillp3]

That is one beautiful looking tank. Well done.
Im going to take the ends of For def.
Thanks for the advice on the soldering, looking forward to trying it. ill take photo's and post my progress. Cant find Cellulos based paint. i heard its been discontinued. Wasnt going to put a Decal on but it wouldnt be the same without it. Iv managed to get all the bits u suggested to me before, Etch primers and paint. But i was thinking, should i paint the crank case (Silver bit under the Base magneto?) if its not rusted or does it have anti-rust properties anyway

Paul