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Date: 31 May 2008
Time: 03:05:52 +0100
From: charlesp
Date: 27 Jan 2006
Time: 17:16:01 -0000
Hi, An FVP is an interesting motor, and I think you'll find it a challenge. The standard bracket from a 40 Plus will fit (although it's slightly larger than an FV original), as will the ordinary Villiers carb from Forty Plus (or minus or featherweight). If those are the only two things missing then that's the basis of a good project. To make it look like new is quite a tall order, and the first thing you'll need to do is decide how far you want to go. The British Seagull website will point you to a generic workshop manual, but you've chosen a model that is only partially covered, as the FVP was an early attempt at a small motor, and the design wasn't around long. There are two major differences - one is the arrangement of head/gasket/block/gasket/crankcase, which in the FVP is a hollow block with studs running right through. Galvanic corrosion takes its toll whith the effects of sea water and you may find the head is eaten away and blowing. If you have to dismantle it you may experience immense problems - I refer you to the Seagull Parts web site(sorry John) for an article. The second major difference is the method of attachment of the driveshaft casing at both the crankcase and the water punp housing. At the top is a clench bolt through an alloy ring - this is fragile, and replacements are rare as hen's teeth; bit have been unavailable since the late fifties! Same applies to the similar clenchbolt on the crankcase nose that bears the bracket - don't break it!. Once loosened it is essential to heat the crankshaft nose as best you can and tap the casing out of it using a hard wood block. If you just whack it with a hammer the crankcase and brass sheath will deform. At the bottom the casing is threaded for a couple of inches, and screws with a right hand thread into the water pump housing. It's a fine thread and very very tight, complicated by corroded alloy. You'll need lots of heat, and care as the temptation to whack it with a hammer will be strong, and the casting is fragile. If you decide to have the casing replated, then it is essential that the upper end and the threaded portion have no metal at all removed - otherwise you'll end up with a sloppy fit that allows it all to just fall apart. I hope that hasn't put you off! Oh and the original FVP petrol tank isn't the same as on later forties - it's tougher and slightly smaller. Having said that they're a smashing little motor - has yours got an original 'white bird decal that's intact ? Good luck!